植物色素應用於染髮劑之開發與效能評估

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標題:	植物色素應用於染髮劑之開發與效能評估 Development of Botanical Hair Dye and the Efficacy Evaluations
作者:	黃岑羽
貢獻者:	化妝品科技研究所林清宮
關鍵字:	庫拉索蘆薈樹番茄萬壽菊溶膠-凝膠法植物色素染髮劑 Sol-gel met botanical hair dyes plant pigments
日期:	2012
上傳時間:	2012-11-27 11:35:06 (UTC+8)
摘要:	近年生活水準提高，天然植物產品已成為重要發展之趨勢，本論文探討天然植物萃取做為染髮劑運用，以萬壽菊花瓣(Tagetes erecta L)、樹番茄漿果(Cyphomandra betacea)、庫拉索蘆薈葉脈(Aloe vera L)，經由萃取製備植物染髮劑。本實驗主題分為三個部分，第一部分係將植物以最適合方法萃取，輔以色澤計比較萃取前後選取顏色呈現較深之植物染色顆粒製成植物染髮劑，因形成最佳穩定平衡狀態後，粒徑大小對於染髮劑產品之細緻感與穩定性有關，進一步評估粒徑測試挑選合宜之植物染髮劑製程。第二部分係將經漂色前處理之頭髮進行染色。第三部分係將染後頭髮進行功效性與穩定性測試，並與酸性染料配製之半永久染髮劑與市售染髮劑作為對照組相互比較。依據研究結果顯示，平均粒徑愈小，染髮劑能夠呈現於頭髮呈色時間相對愈長，採用:溶膠凝膠法-其製程原理為:水解速率大於縮聚合反應速率，可促進凝膠形成，成核(nucleation)速率小於成長(growth)速率，能得到大小單一分佈凝膠，所添加Na2SiO3濃度增加與較高反應溫度，與調製pH值接近5、低濃度氯化銨水溶液，可得較小粒徑之矽凝膠顆粒，所製造出之植物染髮劑粒徑最佳。利用掃描式電子顯微鏡(SEM)觀測之顯微結構，與肉眼所看到之物品有極大差異，由SEM觀察染髮後歷經8次水洗，頭髮毛鱗片排列與圓形染劑顆粒數量呈現比例之相關性，研究結果顯示植物染髮劑圓形顆粒仍存在於毛髮內部結構，未因水洗8次過程而造成染髮劑之明顯流失。由耐水洗堅牢度測試結果得知，植物染髮劑水洗13次後色差△E值為5.98，酸性半永久染髮劑水洗13次後色差△E值為5.51，2組染髮劑之色差△E值均<6NBS為人眼可感覺色差，證明此2組染髮劑歷經13次水洗後仍有繼續水洗之空間存在。由頭髮抗UV測試經日照28天之色差△E改變量，與秤重結果顯示，市售永久性染髮劑之改變量均為最大，對髮質傷害明顯大於酸性染料配製之半永久染髮劑，且植物染髮劑之改變量最小，相對於髮質傷害最為微小。由染髮劑穩定性測試結果證實，隨加溫催化與加速老化過程，2組染髮劑亦呈現非常穩定狀態。本論文研究證實添加強化因子製成植物染髮劑，經研究多項功效性測試結果顯示，如:抗水洗牢固力測試、抗UV防曬效能，與穩定性測試結果均非常優異。 Botanical hair dyes have become an important popular topic in recent years that is because people are worrying about that the synthetic hair dyes are apt to cause safety problems. We extensively investigated three plant pigments including extracted of pigments from inflorescence of Tagetes erecta , gains of Cyphomandra betacea , leaves of Aloe vera , were selectively utilized for the further investigation. The experiment was divided in three parts. The first parts were to evaluate the darker of coloured silica nanoparticles by adding them into different plant pigments. The results of the parts were chosen the most minimum particle sizes to develope botanical hair dyes. The second parts were to dye the health or bleaching hairs by permanent hair dyes or semi-permanent hair dyes or botanical hair dyes were conducted. The three parts were to evaluate the dyed hair by many efficacy and stability testing. According to our results, the smaller of hair dyes average particle sizes, the longer can be present in the hair coloring time. For this reason, botanical hair dyes had the inventions used Stöber developed the sol-gel method. The nucleation and growth of the primary colloidal particles can also be controlled in order to give particles sizes distribution. However, in order to do so the highest Na2SiO3 concentration、temperature and particle size are in inverse proportion, NH4Cl(aq) concentration、pH measurement and particle size are in direct proportion. However, scanning electron microscope (SEM) allowed us saw things not visible to the naked eyes. Used SEM observed of the dyed hair after eight times after washing, these coloured silica nanoparticles entrapped in the hair firmly. Form the results, respectively, botanical hair dyes after thirteen times washing the color difference (∆E) values were 5.98, so the semi-permanent hair dyes were 5.51. The proof of botanical hair dyes and semi-permanent hair dyes after thirteen times washing the color change didn't exceed △E values<6NBS were showed a good shampoo fastness to washing efficiency. Finally, ultraviolet and visible radiations were known to damage hair. For this reason, color changes and hair weights were also observed of the dyed hair, after sun irradiation twenty eight days. Hairs by permanent hair dyes showed the greatest change had significantly effectiveness damage to the hairs than other hair dyes. Most likely the smallest hair weights and color difference observed for botanical hair dyed hair were associated to the greater amount of hair protection by plant components. For the evaluation of the efficiency and stability of these botanical hair dyes and semi-permanent hair dyes, they were suggested these two hair dyes were showed good stable state. That is application for the manufacturing of botanical hair dyes can be developed.
關聯:	校內校外均不公開，學年度：100，117頁
顯示於類別:	[化妝品應用與管理系(所)] 博碩士論文

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