探討台灣花卉與溫泉在化粧品上之開發與應用

Chia Nan University of Pharmacy & Science Institutional Repository > 藥理學院 > 化妝品應用與管理系(所) > 博碩士論文 > Item 310902800/26098

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標題:	探討台灣花卉與溫泉在化粧品上之開發與應用 Study on the Taiwan flowers and hot spring in cosmetic development and application
作者:	杜欣儒
貢獻者:	化妝品科技研究所林清宮
關鍵字:	化粧品溫泉花卉美白抗氧化醱酵 White Hot spring Fermentation Antioxidant Cosmetic
日期:	2012
上傳時間:	2012-11-27 11:35:03 (UTC+8)
摘要:	台灣的花卉產業擁有相當之開發潛力，但花卉產業的經營需要要大量的資金，且目前國內花卉產業特性仍以傳統農產業為主體架構，國內花卉向來以切花型式內銷為主，利潤不高，加工品很少，以致產量過剩時將其棄於地，不適切花之格外品也難以利用，殊為可惜。而台灣還有另一大特色產業為溫泉觀光產業。台灣位於歐亞板塊與菲律賓海板塊碰撞帶上，島上地質與構造複雜，造成非常豐富的溫泉資源。泡湯在近年來已成為人民喜愛的休閒活動之一，除了能舒緩疲勞及活化筋骨外，部分溫泉則具有滋潤皮膚之功效。因此本實驗將探討台灣花卉除了觀賞外之附加價值並將其與具滋潤皮膚功效之溫泉結合，進一步應用於化粧品的開發上。本研究將淡水、安通、知本及瑞穗地區之溫泉水，以SDS-PAGE膠體電泳及人體功效性評估其分解蛋白質之活性，另外花卉部分選取了茉莉花、玉蘭花、玫瑰花、香水百合及桔梗花，將花朵與溶劑(水及50%酒精) 以1：10之質量/體積比例微波萃取。以抗氧化試驗、美白試驗、抗菌試驗及UV吸收之能力評估其活性。並將花卉與溫泉菌進行醱酵以利用於產品的開發上，並以全臉膚質、美白、保濕及彈力評估其在人體之功效性。實驗結果顯示，知本溫泉及淡水溫泉具有分解牛奶蛋白質之能力，且知本溫泉在人體功效性上具有分解角質層上老化堆積之角質。而在花卉活性上，玫瑰具有最佳之抗氧化能力、美白能力、抗菌能力及含有最多之酚類化合物含量，其50% 乙醇萃取物及水萃取物含有321.24 ± 5.21 及294.57 ± 5.27 μg GAE/ mg 之酚類化合物含量；在DPPH‧自由基清除上之SC50為5.88 ± 0.08 及 6.72 ± 0.42 μg/ mL，與Trolox之清除能力是相當的( SC50 = 5.82±0.30)；在ABTS‧+自由基清除上之SC50為 3.42 ± 0.18 及 4.36 ± 0.23 μg/ mL，其清除能力較對照組Trolox佳 ( SC50 = 4.74 ± 0.15 )；而在抑制酪胺酸酶能力上，其EC50為 0.45 ± 0.01 及 0.70 ± 0.01 mg/ mL，抑制能力較Arbutin佳 (EC50 = 1.58 ± 0.08 )。在人體功效性上，經醱酵之玫瑰萃取液在皮膚膚質上之毛孔、膚質紋理及原生紫質是有改善的，且可使膚色之明亮度顯著性提升，L值差異值可達3.11；。故利用溫泉菌之醱酵未來可開發化粧品應用之新原料。 Taiwan’s flower has considerable potential for development, but operate the flower industry requires lot of money, and the domestic flower industry characteristics are still the traditional agricultural industry as the main structure. There is another major feature for the hot spring in Taiwan, it’s can take relax and part of the hot spring has the effect of nourishing the skin. In this study, selection of Taiwan's flowers and hot spring for the material, explore the development and application on cosmetic products. In this study，the composition of four place hot spring in Danshui, Antong, Zhiben and Ruisui, Use SDS-PAGE electrophoresis and in vivo efficacy assessment which activity in hot spring. Another on flowers composition of Jasminum sambac, Michelia x alba, Rosa rugosa, Lilium, Platycodon grandiflorus, selection of the best antioxidant, anti melanogenic, Antibacterial and UV absorption. Re-use combine by hot spring, the products after combine researcher will take it in vivo efficacy assessment, applied in the development of cosmetic products. It can be seen from the experiment results similarly at SDS-Page electrophoresis, Zhiben and Danshui spring can decomposition of milk protein, and in vivo Zhiben can take it to exfoliate. And in flowers Rose has the best active at antioxidant, anti melanogenic, Antibacterial and UV absorption. The phenol content in 50% EtOH extract has 321.24 ± 5.21 μg GAE/ mg and water extract has 294.57 ± 5.27 μg GAE/ mg; the DPPH free radicals scavenging SC50 in 50% EtOH extract = 5.88 ± 0.08 μg/mL and water extract = 6.72 ± 0.42μg/mL, it scavenging equivalent to Trolox standard SC50 = 5.82±0.30μg/mL; scavenging of ABTS‧+ free radicals SC50 in 50% EtOH extract = 3.42 ± 0.18 μg/mL and water extract = 4.36 ± 0.23 μg/mL, it scavenging batter than Trolox standard SC50 = 4.74 ± 0.15 μg/mL; inhibition of tyrosinase EC50 in 50% EtOH extract =0.45 ± 0.01 mg/mL and water extract = 0.70 ± 0.01 mg/mL, it scavenging batter than Arbutin standard EC50 = 1.58 ± 0.08 mg/mL. In vivo efficacy assessment, add Rose extract can take upgrade skin bright, L value can upgrade 3.11; and add combine by spring’s Rose extract can take skin pores, texture, porphylins to improve So except flower extract can development and application on cosmetic products the hot springs also can be developed in the application of cosmetics raw materials.
關聯:	校內校外均不公開，學年度：100，199頁
显示于类别:	[化妝品應用與管理系(所)] 博碩士論文

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