評估台灣產龍眼花萃取液添加於化粧品之研發

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Title:	評估台灣產龍眼花萃取液添加於化粧品之研發 Assessment of Taiwan Longan ( Dimorcarpus longan Lour. ) flower extract added to the development of cosmetics
Authors:	黃璿庭
Contributors:	嘉南藥理科技大學：化妝品科技研究所楊朝成
Keywords:	龍眼花抗氧化化粧品 Cosmetic Antioxidant Longan flower
Date:	2011
Issue Date:	2011-10-25 13:28:18 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	中草藥萃取物為目前化粧品原料開發之主流方向，因此本研究主要以龍眼花作為化粧品開發之主角，分為五部分做探討：第一部分以三種不同方法進行萃取，包括加熱迴流萃取法、微波萃取法、冷浸萃取法，比較其萃取產率；第二部分以不同抗氧化方法測試其抗氧化能力，並選取較佳之萃取液，進行龍眼花添加於配方之試驗；第三部分則是測試龍眼花萃取液之安全性評估；第四部分將龍眼花萃取液添加於配方中，測試其配方安定性及流變性；第五部分以穩定之配方進行人體膚質有效性評估。實驗結果顯示，在不同萃取法萃取龍眼花，以加熱迴流萃取法具有較佳之產率為18.4%，而在總酚含量測定試驗中，以加熱迴流萃取法之龍眼花萃取液之總酚含量為 252.2 ± 0.1 GA mg/extract g 為最高含量。在清除 DPPH自由基之清除率及清除 ABTS＋∙ 自由基清除率中，皆以加熱迴流萃取法較其他兩種方法效果為佳，其 IC50 分別為 20.3 ± 0.2 µg/mL及 2.8 ± 0.8 µg/mL。將具有較佳抗氧化效果之龍眼花萃取液，進行其安全性試驗，分別進行24及48小時結果皆顯示龍眼花萃取液在細胞毒性試驗，不具毒性且在低濃度具有活化細胞之效果；在皮膚刺激性實驗中，手臂內側塗抹龍眼花化粧品經24及48小時後，亦無過敏反應；在總生菌數試驗中顯示，精華液及面霜其總生菌數分別為104個/mL及121個/g ，皆在合格範圍內，且無驗出大腸桿菌、綠膿桿菌、金黃色葡萄球菌。另外在龍眼花化粧品之流變性及安定性中，其精華液及面霜之流變性質，在加速前後稠度變化不大，而在產品加速老化試驗中，皆有超過60天的穩定性，顯示本配方具有3年之安定性。經活性及安定性測試過後，將龍眼花面霜及龍眼花精華液經人體膚質試驗後，其面霜及精華液針對抗皺具有良好的效果，故未來可將龍眼花添加於化粧品中，開發具有抗皺效果之產品。 raditional Chinese medicine has become a mainstream in the development of active ingredients for the cosmetic industry. In this study, Longan flower were employed to develope cosmetics, this study was divided into five parts. The first part is to extract by different methods, such as refluxing , microwave, immersed, and calculated the extract yield. Secondly, we evaluated the different antioxidant activity of scavenging capacities, and chose the better extract to add in the formulation. Thirdly, we tested the safety of Longan flower extract. To continued, we added the Longan flower extract to the cosmetic formula , and that evaluated the stability and rheological property.Finally, we chose the stability product to evaluated the efficacy, in vivo. The results showed that, in the different extract methods which is refluxing had the better extract yield of 18.4%.The experiment of total phenolic content, the Longan flower extracts by refluxing had the highest content is 252.2� 0.1 GA mg / extract g. In the DPPH free radical scavenging and the trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity experiment, both of refluxing had the best effect than others, the IC50 value 20.3 � 0.2 µg / mL and 2.8 � 0.2µg / mL, respectively. We chose the better antioxidant effect of longan flower extract to experiment of safety. The result which in the Cytotoxicity test at 24and 48 hrs showed that, it had the effect of cell activation and non-toxic. In the skin irritation experiment which is smeared on the inside of forearm for up to 24 and 48 hr, the result indicated that will not induce allergic reactions. Total plate count showed that the essential and cream were 104/ mL and 121 /g, respectively. Both are in the qualified range, and also not detected Escherichia coli, Pseudomonas aeruginosa and Staphylococcus aureus. While in the Longan flower cosmetics of rheological and stability, its Essence and Cream of rheological properties, before and after the accelerate consistency by little change, and in the stability both more than 60 days. Through test after activity and stability, Essence and Cream of Longan flower by human skin test, has the well effect of anti-wrinkle by Essence and Cream, in the future Longan flower will increase cosmetics, development of the effect of anti-wrinkle product.
Relation:	校內校外均不公開
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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