粉底霜配方之儲存安定性及防曬係數的探討

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標題:	粉底霜配方之儲存安定性及防曬係數的探討 Study on Storage Stability and SPF Value of Foundation Emulsions
作者:	黃宇甄
貢獻者:	嘉南藥理科技大學：化妝品科技研究所張妙玲
關鍵字:	色差黏稠度流變性儲存安定性防曬係數(SPF) 粉底霜 Viscosity Color Stability Rheology Storage Stability
日期:	2011
上傳時間:	2011-10-25 13:28:16 (UTC+8)
摘要:	現今是一個個人形象重要的時代，簡單的保養或打扮已不能滿足人們對自我形象的要求，化粧才真正可以更幫助人們展現個人的好氣色及個人獨特魅力以利職場需求及社交活動。因此，對每一個人而言，充分利用以及了解彩粧產品已是一種趨勢。目前隨手可得的市售彩粧產品非常繁多包括口紅，粉底，睫毛膏，眼影以及眼線液等等，其中以粉底在彩粧產品中佔有舉足輕重的地位。大家都知道一個好的粧看起來會氣色好、膚質佳，但不好的粧呈現出來的將會是浮粉、脫粧、氣色差、膚質差。因此，決定一個粧的好與壞，粉底會是一大重要因素。又由於有關粉底霜產品可參考的文獻資料不多，因此著手探討粉底霜所用的基劑對品質的影響並配方出優質的粉底霜產品。利用 W/O 劑型 Olivem 900（Sorbitan Olivate）界面活性劑進行研究，選用 Mineral oil、Dimethicone（DM 5）、C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate（Finsolv TN）、Cyclopentasiloxane 為四種液態油脂與固態油脂硬脂酸（Stearic acid）搭配作為基礎油脂，以 Olivem 900 不同含量搭配不同增稠劑 MgSO4、NaCl、Silica、Bentonite、HEC、Xanthan Gum、Veegum，進而選出最佳的基礎乳液配方，接著取此基礎乳液配方，進行單一或混合添加色相粉、二氧化鈦（Titanium Dioxide/TiO2）、防曬成分製成具防曬能力的粉底產品，而防曬成分選用常見的 Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate（OMC）、Octocrylene（OCT）及 4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane（P1789），所得粉底霜再經 45℃ 加速老化後測定其流變性質、黏度變化、色差及相分離等物性評估以篩選出最佳之粉底霜配方依據。經研究結果顯示，色相粉與粉劑 TiO2（PROPA TiO2/DM）添加在 Olivem 900 乳化系統中，易造成產品的不安定，但是將粉劑 TiO2 改為油分散型 TiO2（Sunclear T40）添加，則可改善產品安定性，且添加有防曬成份的粉底霜其安定性可達到 28 天。但P1789防曬成份只要存在粉底霜中，就容易產生橘色條紋或顆粒，因此也不建議應用在此一乳化分散系中。另外以色差計測定產品之顏色變化，結果顯示所有的粉底霜其總色差（ΔE）均在 1.41 以內，所以產品維持在視覺不可感之色差，顯示其色澤安定性佳。在SPF 有效性之測定方面，色相粉、TiO2 濃度與 SPF 防護能力有關，即濃度越高有效性也隨之提高，且具有線性的表現。例如，當添加單一色相粉或添加單一粉劑 TiO2 時，其 SPF 值均隨著濃度增加而提高，其線性相關係數（r）分別為 0.9999 及 0.9724；當色相粉與粉劑 TiO2 混合添加時，其線性相關係數（r）較低為 0.9546。進一步添加化學性防曬成分後，又可更提高 SPF 值，但防曬劑添加總量以不超過 4% 為基準，以避免使配方不安定及引發皮膚刺激，且同時須以油分散型的 TiO2 取代粉劑之 TiO2，才能得到最佳性質之粉底霜產品。綜合以上研究已製得安定且同時能兼具防曬及修飾膚色效果之最佳粉底霜，除了具有好的美學外觀外，其 SPF 值為 94.61，而儲存安定性可達 28 天以上，配方組成如下：Olivem 900 4%、Stearic acid 1.5%、Mineral oil 3%、DM 5 2.5%、Finsolv TN 3%、Cyclopentasiloxane 10%、UNIPHEN P-23 0.3%、W 712 7%、Sunclear T40 15%、Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate 2%、Octocrylene 2%、1,3-Butylene Glycol 2.5%、Glycerin 2.5%、Bentonite 1.0%、Xanthan Gum 1.0%、D.W. 43.9%。 Nowadays, personal appearance and image are important during the social contact. People can enhance or improve their own appearance using simple skin beauty. In addition, the use of makeup products should be recommended in order to have a much better rubicundity and to look high-spirited. A great number of color cosmetics such as lipsticks, foundations, mascaras, eyeshadows, and eyeliners were commercially available. Among these makeup products, foundations are the most primary. The main function of foundation creams is in its ability to hide skin flaws, leave the skin surface appear smoother, and modify skin color in face. It is well known that wherever a foundation is useful for complexions and skin smooth or not is determined by their qualities. However, there is a little publication on the influence of varying makeup bases on physicochemical properties. This had led to the development of elegant foundations. The purpose of the study was to evaluate the influence of various kinds of makeup bases such as thickener, colorants, titanium oxide and sunscreen agents on the storage stability and the sunburn protection of foundation products. In order to formulate a emulsion base, we selected sorbitan olivate with w/o type (Olivem 900) as a emulsifier and seven ingredients, MgSO4、NaCl、Silica、Bentonite、HEC、Xanthan Gum、and Veegum as thickeners. And then three chemical UV filters, OMC (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate), Octocrylene（OCT） and P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) were selected because they were the most widely used UV filters which were approved. In the first study, we search for an optimum w/o emulsion. In the second experiment, we performed studies using the incorporation of colorants and/or various kinds of TiO2 and/or UV filters at varying level into the W/O emulsion. Their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, and physical changes were evaluated and the sunburn protection was tested by Labsphere‘s UV-1000s transmittance analyzer (according to Food and Drug administration method). Moreover, the stability in color was measured using CIE-L, a, b system and determined as the difference between the colors observed in the foundations before and after accelerated test. In relating to physicochemical properties, the results showed that the incorporation of colorant or PROPA TiO2/DM (powder form) into the w/o emulsion can result in the increasing instability of the dispersion system. When the powder TiO2 was replaced with sunclear T40 (oily form), foundations with an aesthetic appearance were obtained and there are acceptable physicochemical properties. We have demonstrated that all the obtained products had pseudoplastic behavior which produces a coherent protective film covering the skin surface with evenly distributed functional ingredients. In the presence of sunclear T40 (oily form) foundations with or without UV filters exhibited a reasonable stability, but P1789 can easily cause the sedimentation of a colored precipitant in the dispersed system. Their storage stability was up to 28 days after accelerated test. Regarding to the stability in color, the results showed that total color change (ΔE) of all the foundations is below 1.41. Obviously, the color change is invisible. On the other hand, the sun protection factor (SPF) of all the foundations was measured. These results indicate that the SPF values were well correlating with the amounts of colorants, titanium oxide, and the used UV filters. The SPF value of the foundations increase with increasing level of colorants or TiO2. Incorporating single colorants and incorporation single TiO2 provide correlation coefficient of r=0.9999 and r=0.9724, respectively. But a combination of colorants with TiO2 had a lower correlation coefficient of r=0.9546. And then the incorporation of UV filters into the foundations contributed much higher SPF value. However, in order to avoid the foundations unstable and to cause skin irritant, total amount of the used UV filter should be limited to 4% in foundations. At the same time, it is noticed that oily TiO2 need to be used instead of powder TiO2 in order to ascertain the optimization of the foundations. Based on these findings, a desired foundation was obtained. With high SPF of 94.61, good stability at 45℃ testing for 28 days, and esthetic appearance, it is composed of Olivem 900 4%, Stearic acid 1.5%, Mineral oil 3%, DM 5 2.5%, Finsolv TN 3%, Cyclopentasiloxane 10%, UNIPHEN P-23 0.3%, W 712 7%, Sunclear T40 15%, Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate 2%, Octocrylene 2%, 1,3-Butylene Glycol 2.5%, Glycerin 2.5%, Bentonite 1.0%, Xanthan Gum 1.0%, D.W. 43.9%。
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