| 摘要: | 市售之化妝品種類繁多，粉底、口紅及防曬霜等都是屬於相當普遍且日常必需使用的保養彩粧產品。為了增加其有效性，這些塗抹在臉上的的粉底、彩妝、防曬霜必須相當程度的附著於臉上。因此，當進行卸粧時，若僅以簡單的清水或一般的洗面乳，是不容易清洗乾淨的。然若未清除乾淨，則附著於臉上的產品，會阻塞毛孔，容易造成皮脂代謝之困難，導致皮膚問題產生。因此，徹底從臉上清除這些彩妝、粉類製品之化粧品才能讓皮脂的代謝正常，並且可避免因殘留而產生粉刺問題。
目前的文獻中，有關卸妝產品之調製大部份都是專利報告，另外有關評估卸妝產品之卸除能力之方法的刊載亦相當少。因此，希望透過本次研究，開發不同劑型及配方之卸妝產品，並評估配方的穩定安定性外，並且開發一套應用於皮膚(in vivo方式)以評估卸妝產品之有效性的方法。為了此一研究，本實驗選擇不同種之界面活性劑包括Arlacel 165(Glyceryl Monostearate & POE Stearate) 、Span60/Tween60 (Sorbitan Stearate / Polysorbate 60) 、Olivem900(Sorbitan Olivate) 及CD Pol(Cetyl dimethicone copolyol)等做為乳化劑並分別在不同油相含量的條件下，調製不同劑型包括水包油型（O/W）、油包水型（W/O）、及油劑型（Oil-based type）之卸妝產品。所以本研究主要目的除了建立卸妝能力之評估方法外，也進一步開發安定性佳及高效性均兼具的卸妝產品。
在有效性評估方面，首先用數位照相方式拍攝測試部位，再利用軟體，取得固定區域影像的所有畫素之R、G、B值，並轉換為CIE L*a*b* (CIELab)值，再求得代表圖片明亮度之L值。以乾淨的原皮膚膚色測量的L值（較靠近100）及完全塗抹彩妝產品時的L值(較靠近0)為基準為基準，與上妝之後再卸妝的皮膚膚色測量的L值比較，作為卸除能力評估的依據。結果顯示，W/O卸妝乳及Oil-based全油劑型的卸妝油具有較佳的卸妝能力，而且油脂含量較高(O/W)時，也會促進卸妝產品有較好的卸妝能力。經由本實驗研究結果，發現最佳配方為配方7，因為它同時具備好的有效性與最佳的安定性，在有效性方面，卸除能力達到94.20%±3.60，另外在穩定性方面，加速老化90天後，其C%仍維持100%。此一配方組成如下：Arlacel165 3%、CCT 5%、Finsolv TN 3%、Squalane 3%、Mineral oil 5%、IPP 5%、Stearic acid 2%、Stearyl alcohol 2%、Glycerin 2%、P.G 1%、carbopol1342 0.15%、GermabenII 0.8%、TEA 0.1%、D.W 67.95%。
In a series of commercially available cosmetic products such as foundations, lipsticks and mascaras are popular and needed to have a much better rubicundity and to look high-spirited. Even they are able to protect the skin from UV radiation damage. However, after having finished their use at the end of the day, these color cosmetics will be considered to be useless dirt. In order to have a better removal, the make-up removers should meet two opposite properties. When applied, these products should appropriately adhere to the skin to achieve a better effectiveness for a fine-looking. Instead, it should be easy for user to remove these cosmetics applied on the skin. If the users do not wash or take off the make-up completely, the surface of the skin will be contaminated with the residue. This will lead to the difficulty in sebum metabolism and increasing risk of having problematic skin such as thick pore, acne and comedones. To avoid the occurrence of these irritation and to leaves skin feeling fresh and comfortable, it is a key point that using an elegant remover effectively cleanses the dirt.
Removers have played a major role in creating completely fresh surface of the skin contaminated by the residural make-up. While a considerable amount of research refer to patents and reports on the formula, little attention have been given to their efficacy. The purpose of this study was to evaluate the possible influence of different formulation and technological parameters such as emulsion type and concentration of oil phase on the storage stability. In addition, developing a novel method for evaluating the ability to take off the make-up is also another aim of this study.
For the study, two hydrophilic and two lipophilic surfactants were selected as emulsifiers for preparing o/w, w/o emulsions, respectively. Cleansing oil (oil-based type) was also formulated. The varying concentration of oil ingredients was incorporated into these formulations to produce emulsions with high level and low level oil phase. As a result, a series of make-up removers obtained. Their physical-chemical properties and their cleansing ability were determined.
Regarding to the evaluation of cleansing ability, firstly a photograph of the measuring test area on volunteer’s arms was taken by the digital camera and illuminating tubes which is placed in a wooden box. Secondly, the images were taken at a resolution (100x100 pixels) and the obtained RGB of photograph data was converted into connected to a L*a*b* color values using the image processing software designed by ourselves. The L* value is ranging from 0 to 100. The original color of the skin without rubbing any color cosmetics was measured as a control and would be close to L* of 100. Instead, the skin covered by color cosmetics has L* close to 0. After cleansing, a higher L* represents more lightness and a good cleansing ability. The results showed that w/o remover and oil-based cleaning oil exhibit a better removal from the skin and a higher level of oil phase in o/w remover will improve cleansing ability. Based on the result of research,the best formulation is formulation 7, beacause it .possess good effectiveness and stability.In terms of effectiveness, the cleansing ability achieve 94.20%±3.60 and besides ,in terms of stability, the C% remains 100% after accelerated testing for 90 days.It is composed of Arlacel165 3%,CCT 5%,Finsolv TN 3%,Squalane 3%,Mineral oil 5%,IPP 5%,Stearic acid 2%,Stearyl alcohol 2%,Glycerin 2%,P.G 1%,carbopol1342 0.15%,GermabenII 0.8%,TEA 0.1%,D.W 67.95%. |
