中藥複方之藥渣在化粧品之應用

CNU IR > Pharmacy and Science > Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science > Dissertations and Theses > Item 310902800/24496

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Title:	中藥複方之藥渣在化粧品之應用 The Application of Chinese Medicines Combination Residues on Cosmetic Products
Authors:	曹哲維
Contributors:	嘉南藥理科技大學：化妝品科技研究所陳榮秀
Keywords:	化粧品回收利用中藥複方藥渣 Recycle Cosmetics Residues Chinese Medicines Combination
Date:	2011
Issue Date:	2011-10-25 13:28:07 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	自古以來便有許多文獻記載中藥之功效，而中藥複方更為一大特色，應用在皮膚保養之複方應屬慈禧太后所用之玉容散最為人所知。而近年來廢物回收再利用風氣盛行，本論文即利用中藥廠萃取過之藥渣進一步萃取，並與原始複方比較活性，並進一步開發為化粧保養品。本實驗選擇10 種中藥複方藥渣 (四物湯、解毒丸、六味地黃丸、補精、喜得龍、明目保眼、潤腸通便、喜得鳳、活絡行血與補氣順血) 以水、50 % 乙醇以及 95 % 乙醇進行萃取，並比較三種不同溶劑其粗萃液抗氧化活性。結果顯示以50 % 乙醇萃取之粗萃液在濃度 1 % 時，其DPPH．清除率高於水萃以及 95 % 乙醇萃取 10 % 以上；而50 % 乙醇萃取液亦顯示高於水萃以及95 % 乙醇萃取 10 % 以上之 ABTS．＋自由基清除能力。故以50 % 乙醇萃取原中藥複方，進行冷凍乾燥，與中藥渣萃取比較抗氧化、美白、 UV 吸收、細胞毒性、抗菌等活性。結果顯示補精、喜得龍、明目保眼、喜得鳳、補氣順血藥渣其清除DPPH 自由基以及清除ABTS 自由基之 SC50 較原中藥降低 35 %，總酚含量也較原中藥高 60 % 以上。如喜得龍藥渣清除DPPH 自由基SC50 為23.2 ± 0.2 g/ml，原中藥 SC50 為61.4 ± 0.7g/ml；清除ABTS 自由基上，喜得龍藥渣之SC50 為16.9 ± 0.3 g/ml，原中藥為31.4 ± 0.5 g/ml；喜得龍藥渣萃取總酚含量為 116.38 ± 2.25 mg GAE/g，原中藥複方為55.95 ± 0.25 mg GAE/g。在抑制酪胺酸酶方面，喜得龍藥渣在濃度 0.1 mg/ml 時，抑制率達到 69.4 ± 0.2 %，而喜得龍原中藥抑制率為 40.8 ± 3.7 %。此外，藥渣對於 L-ascorbic acid 具有加成效果，喜得龍藥渣在 0.1 mg/ml 下抑制率為 69.4 %，L-ascorbic acid 濃度 0.1 mg/ml 時抑制率為 65.1 %，當喜得龍藥渣加入 L-ascorbic acid 後，抑制率提升為 98.4 %，而 0.05 mg/ml 喜得龍藥渣加入 0.05 mg/ml 的 L-ascorbic acid 抑制率為 88.8 %，顯示藥渣能夠提升 L-ascorbic acid 抑制酪胺酸酶的能力，使 L-ascorbic acid 在較低的濃度便能達到相同的效果。以上結果顯示中藥複方之藥渣以 50 % 乙醇之萃取其抗氧化、美白、 UV吸收等活性優於原中藥，因此中藥複方藥渣有極高的回收再利用價值。故將喜得龍藥渣應用於配方中，進行人體有效性評估，33.3 % 之受測者在皮膚色斑、毛孔、膚質紋理、紫外線色斑、膚色等具有 10 % 以上之改善率，而對 50 % 的受測者具有提升 25 % 以上之保濕值的改善效果，故此藥渣之配方未來在美白及多功效之中藥化粧品上極具開發潛力。 The therapeutic benefits of Chinese medicine were recored for years, and Chinese medicine combination (CMC) is the characteristic of Chinese medicine. The most famous one of CMCF applied to skin is Yu-Rong-San. In recent years, recycle is in vogue. In this study, Chinese medicine combination residurs (CMCR) were re-extrated and were compaired the activities with original Chinese medicine combination (OCMC). Finally, CMCR were developed to cosmetic products. In this study, ten CMCRs (Si-Wu-Tang, Jie-Du-Wan, Liu-Wei-Dihusng pills, Bu-Jing, Xi-De-Long, Ming-Mu-Bao-Yan, Run-Chang-Tong-Bian, Xi-De-Feng, Huo-Luo-Hang-Xie, Bu-Qi-Shun-Xie) were extracted with three solvents (water, 50 % ethanol and 95 % ethanol) to compare the antioxidant activity of extacted liquid. The results indicated 50 % ethanol extracts liquid showed more than 10 % DPPH radical scavenging percentages compared with water extrats liquid and 95 % ethanol extracts liquid. The 50 % ethanol extracts also showed higher scavenging percentages in ABTS•+ radical. We extracted the OCMC with 50 % ethanol and compared the antioxidant activity, tyrosinase inhibition activity, UV absortion, cell toxicity and antibacterial activity between OCMC and CMCR extracts. The DPPH radical scavenging capacity and ABTS•+ radical scavenging ability showed the SC50 of CMCR extracts were 35 % lower than OCMC extracts. CMCR extracts showed 60 % higher total phenol content than OCMC extracts The SC50 of DPPH radical scavenging capacity of Xi-De-Long combination residurs (CMCS-5) and original Xi-De-Long combination (OCMC-5) were 23.2 ± 0.2 g/ml and 61.4 ± 0.7 g/ml. ABTS•+ radical scavenging ability showed the SC50 of CMCS-5 was 16.9 ± 0.3 g/ml and the SC50 of OCMC-5 was 31.4 ± 0.5 g/ml. The total phenol of CMCS-5 and OCMC-5 were 116.38 ± 2.25 mg GAE/g and 55.95 ± 0.25 mg GAE/g. Inhibition tyrosinase assay showed the inhibition percentage of CMCS-5 and OCMC-5 were 69.4 ± 0.2 % and 40.8 ± 3.7 % at 0.3 mg/ml. And the results indicated CMCS can improve the tyrosinase inhibition activity of L-ascorbic acid. The inhibition percentage of CMCS-5 and L-ascorbic acid were 69.4 % abd 65.1 % at 0.1 mg/ml. The the inhibition percentage was 98.4 % of the mixture of CMCS-5 (0.1 mg/ml) and L-ascorbic acid (0.1 mg/ml). CMCS-5 (0.05 mg/ml) combined L-ascorbic acid (0.05 mg/ml) showed 88.8 % tyrosinase inhibition activity. CMCS can improve the tyrosinase inhibition activity of L-ascorbic acid or reduce the used concertration of L-ascorbic acid. Above results indicated the 50 % ethonal extracts of CMCS had higher activity than OCMC and had the potiential to recycle for use. Selected CMCS-5 made skincare products. Those products had improvement effect on spots, pores, UV spots, moisture of skin and improved skin color. And human efficiency evaluation was utilized for the determination of the feasibility of CMCS for the cosmetic purposes.
Relation:	校內馬上公開，校外一年後公開
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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