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    標題: 護髮霜中有機矽及乳化劑對頭髮的影響評估
    Hair assessments for the influences of silicone and emulsifier in hair conditioning cream
    作者: 張玄鈴
    貢獻者: 嘉南藥理科技大學:化妝品科技研究所
    李淵博
    關鍵字: 髮徑
    乳化劑
    有機矽
    梳理性
    拉力
    Tensile
    Combing
    Hair diameter
    Emulsifier
    日期: 2011
    上傳時間: 2011-10-25 13:28:04 (UTC+8)
    摘要: 有機矽因為多種功能優勢,所以廣泛的被運用在皮膚與頭髮產品上;在頭髮護理產品中更是大量使用,無論洗髮精、護髮品或其他特殊產品,有機矽是不可或缺的成分。有機矽的種類繁多,會因為不同分子量或不同官能基而在頭髮表面產生不同的效果;而乳化劑在配方中也同樣擔任重要角色。整個實驗設計主要是希望透過實驗結果來瞭解有機矽與乳化劑對頭髮的影響。
    本研究選用四種不同分子量有機矽在不同添加比例下,搭配三種不同組成的冷操作系統乳化劑,經由各種不同變數組成製備成護髮霜,並將其調理於頭髮上,藉此進一步觀察探討。
    由實驗結果顯示,未經護髮霜調理的髮徑範圍在80.0~89.90μm之間,經三十種不同添加比例配方之護髮霜調理後,所測試到的髮徑增加至84.9~119.45 μm之間,在所有測試樣品中,髮徑差最大可達32.45μm;經S1所製備的護髮霜調理後,其髮徑差範圍為0.60~18.00μm,髮徑差平均為7.50μm;經S2所製備的護髮霜調理後,其髮徑差範圍為1.60~22.25μm,髮徑差平均為7.81μm;經S3所製備的護髮霜調理後,其髮徑差範圍為1.10~32.45μm,髮徑差平均為10.18μm;由實驗結果可知,以親油性陽離子型乳化劑所製備之護髮霜在頭髮上的附著效果較為顯著,其中又以添加10%分子量3200之有機矽的效果最顯著,其在拉力測試中,也呈現最大的承受應力,顯示經此配方調理過的頭髮拉伸強度較高。
    而在拉力測試頭髮形變量之結果中可發現高有機矽添加量配方會比低有機矽添加量配方形變量高。
    在梳理測試中,以複合型乳化劑搭配分子量3200之有機矽在10%添加量與親水性陽離子型乳化劑搭配分子量10000之有機矽在1%添加量時在梳理應力上最低,這表示此兩個配方所製備的護髮霜在增加頭髮的滑順度上效果最佳。
    Silicon has been widely used in a variety of personal care products in recent years. The usage percentage of organic silicones in hair care products is still increasing. To increase the softness and smoothness is the well-recognized function for adding organic silicones into hair care products. Organic silicones are present in a variety of forms with various function group or molecular weight. In the composing of hair conditioning cream, emulsifier also plays an important role. In this experiment, it is attempted to understand the influences of organic silicones and emulsifier on the hair.
    The hair conditioning creams were prepared with various combinations of silicone and emulsion under cold-operating conditions. Organic silicones with four different molecular weight were selected and added to the cream formulation with three different cold operating emulsifiers individually. The test hair were selected, followed by cleansing, rinsing and treating with the hair conditioning cream. Hair diameter measurement, tensile strength test and combing test were performed.
    The diameter of tested hair was increased after conditioning in all test samples. However, the inereasing amount might be related to the viscosity of the conditioning cream, the emulsifier used to prepare the cream or the added organic silicones. Nevertheless, the tensile strength, deformation and combing easibility of hair after conditioning and not directly related to the addition amoumt or molecular weight of organic silicones.
    In this study, it is concluded that the touchness and smoothness of hair after conditioning can be affected by the organic silicones and emulsifier used. With different emulsifier system, the results can be different dramatically. Higher molecular weight organic silicones can achieve better smoothness.It need to perform certain tests in order to get the optimum formulation for intended purpose.
    關聯: 校內外均一年後公開
    顯示於類別:[化妝品應用與管理系(所)] 博碩士論文

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