| 摘要: | 隨著生活水平的提升，人們對於清潔化粧品的需求日益多樣化。除了要求洗淨、不刺激皮膚外，對於產品外觀以及功效性也已漸漸重視。目前市面上許多清潔產品為了消費者訴求，於產品中加入粉體，包括去角質、活性成分顆粒、甚至抗老化及美觀的金鉑。然而粉體與活性成分的不均勻分佈，將會影響產品外觀及產品最終功效。故如何使產品之粉體均勻分佈，減少粉體沉澱量或是延長沉澱時間，為本研究探討之目的。
本研究實驗分為兩部分，第一部分係將粉體添加於不同界面活性劑配方，進行重力加速離心與黏度測試，評估懸浮能力並探討流變行為與其之相關性。第二部分係將市售含粉體之清潔化粧品，進行粉體懸浮能力之測試，並與本實驗配方作為相互之比較。
依據本實驗結果顯示，清潔化粧品配方因界面活性劑受異性電荷相互吸引、疏水鏈間相互作用，以及高分子添加使溶液空間體積膨脹，進而使黏度增加，流體皆呈現假塑性切變致稀性。所添加之增稠劑(NaCl、Xanthan Gum、Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer)皆能使劑型增加黏度，只有Sodium Acrylates/Acrylonitrogens Copolymer由於結晶物質分子之間結合力強，使其難溶解於溶劑中，致使添加後析出。結果顯示，添加NaCl於清潔化粧品中增稠效果最佳，含Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer清潔化粧品懸浮能力最佳。
由清潔化粧品配方實驗結果得知，影響懸浮能力由低剪切速率0.2 sec-1之黏度與化學結構兩個因素所致。此研究以作為化粧品研究開發人員，對粉體於清潔化粧品懸浮能力之參考依據。
With the increase in living standards, there has been an increase in the variety of detergents available in the market today. It is not only demanded that these products be sanitary and safe, but that they should also be effective in improving the appearance of our skin. For years, manufacturers have added powders, which are able to exfoliate the stratum corneum, to have anti-aging effects, and to give an appearance of beauty. However, if the powders are not evenly dispersed within the detergent, the efficacy and the appearance of the product is affected.
This paper examined the proper way to disperse powders effectively in the detergents. The experiment was divided in two parts. The first part was to evaluate the suspension ability of the powders by adding them into different surfactant formulations. The second part was to evaluate powders that were in detergents currently in the market. The results of the two parts were then compared. Through centrifugation we were able to evaluate the amount of powders in the detergents that sunk within a given period of time, and we were able to assess the suspension ability of powders over a given time in different surfactant formulas.
According to our results, the rheological behavior of the detergent formulations were shear-thinning and the viscosity was affected by attractiveness for opposite charges, hydrophobic chain effects, and swelling of polymers. NaCl, Xanthan gum, and Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer were the thickening agents in the formulations, which increased the viscosity of the detergent. However, Sodium acrylates/acrylonitrogens copolymers did not increase viscosity, and upon further speculation it was observed that it was because the crystalline solid could not be dissolved in the detergents. As a result, NaCl was the best for increasing the viscosity of the detergents, and Acrylates/C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer was the best for increasing the suspension in the detergents.
From the experiment, the suspension ability of the detergents was effected by the viscosity and the chemical structure. This research could be used as a reference point of how to add powders to detergents effectively. |
