| 摘要: | 乳液是熱力學不穩定的體系，其壽命是有限的，一般市售化妝品必須有2~3 年的貨架壽命。為了解化粧品穩定性所需要探討問題包含了流變特性與粒徑分佈大小等。因此想要得到一個穩定的乳化化粧品，可經由三個途徑來達成：乳化粒子細小化、縮小內外相比重差距、增加外相的黏度。
本研究所使用的研究方法，以不同乳化劑（Cetearyl glucoside、Sucrose Stearate、Polysorbate 60）為基礎，製作乳化化粧品配方，再添加不同比例的鯨蠟硬脂醇（Cetearyl alcohol）與三仙膠（Xanthan gum）來改善其穩定性。探討配方對溫度老化及離心試驗的耐受度，藉由測量其老化前後之黏度及粒徑分佈大小的變化，找尋出影響乳化化粧品穩定性的因素，獲得穩定的乳化配方。
研究結果顯示，（1）於Cetearyl glucoside 乳化系統中，提高乳化劑濃度，由4%提升為6%，穩定性有上升的趨勢，且黏度（切剪速度2.25sec-1）上升2 倍，但是在Sucrose Stearate、Polysorbate 60 乳化系統中，卻無此現象。（2）於Cetearyl glucoside 乳化系統中，添加1%鯨蠟硬脂醇，穩定性有下降的趨勢，但是在Sucrose Stearate 及Polysorbate 60 乳化系統中，添加3%鯨蠟硬脂醇，穩定性有上升的趨勢。（3）於Cetearyl glucoside 及Sucrose Stearate 乳化系統中，添加0.1%三仙膠，穩定性有上升的趨勢，且粒徑較未添加三仙膠配方細緻，而Polysorbate 60 乳化系統添加三仙膠後，穩定性無改善之情況。本研究結果提供（1）乳化劑、鯨蠟硬脂醇和三仙膠於乳化化粧品中，比例應用之相關性。（2）乳化化粧品配方中，乳化劑、鯨蠟硬脂醇和三仙膠對流變形為和粒徑變化的相關參考依據。
Emulsion is unstable system in thermodynamics, the life is limited. Generally, the market cosmetics should keep 2 to 3 years of shelf life. In order to
understand the cosmetics stability of the need to explore the issue containing rheological properties and particle size distribution. So we want to get a stable emulsion cosmetics, there are three ways of the small particle of the emulsion, reducing specific weight between dispersed phase and continuous phase the gap, the high viscosity of the continuous phase. This research uses the method, taking the different emulsifiers(Cetearyl glucoside, Sucrose stearate, Polysorbate 60) as the foundation, to manufacture emulsification cosmetics formula, and increase the different proportion of cetearyl alcohol and xanthan gum to improve the stability. To explore the formula tolerance of the temperature aging and the centrifuge tests, by measuring the changes of before and after aging in viscosity and particle size distribution, to find the factors that affect the stability of emulsion cosmetics, to obtain a stable emulsion formula.
In results: (1) The emulsified system of cetearyl glucoside increases the emulsifier concentration from 4% to 6%, the stability has an upward trend, and
the viscosity (shear rate of 2.25sec-1) rises 2 times, but the emulsified system of sucrose stearate and polysorbate 60 have not this phenomenon. (2) The
emulsified system of cetearyl glucoside increases 1% cetearyl alcohol, the stability has a downward trend, but the emulsified system of sucrose stearate and polysorbate 60 increases 3% cetearyl alcohol, the stability has an upward trend. (3) The emulsified system of cetearyl glucoside and sucrose stearate add 0.1% IV xnathan gum, the stability has an upward trend, and the particle size is smaller, but the emulsified system of polysorbate 60 add xanthan gum, the stability did not improve the situation. In this research, it provides (1) The emulsifier, cetearyl alcohol, xanthan gum in the emulsion cosmetics, the proportion of related applications. (2) In the emulsion cosmetic formula, emulsifier, cetearyl alcohol and xanthan gum of rheological behavior and particle size distribution change related to reference. |
