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    標題: 影響防曬化粧品使用效能之研究
    Study on alternative evaluation method in vitro for the using effect of sunscreen products
    作者: 鄧秀珠
    貢獻者: 楊朝成
    嘉南藥理科技大學:化妝品科技研究所
    關鍵字: 防曬係數
    臨界波長
    粒徑
    Sun Protection Factor
    Minimal Erythema Dose
    日期: 2010
    上傳時間: 2010-10-08 13:42:07 (UTC+8)
    摘要: 本研究主要探討影響防曬產品使用效果之因素,藉由塗抹不同量的防曬產品,利用SPF測定儀(UV1000S)進行體外試驗,探討塗抹量對SPF值的差異性,並瞭解市售商品的SPF標示值,是否能提供標示值的防曬效果;另外並於實驗室調製不同防曬劑濃度的防曬產品,在乳化過程中改變攪拌的速度,探討粒徑大小的變化,以其對於防曬產品SPF值的影響。
    經隨機購買的15罐市售商品中,依FDA標準方法測試,僅有6罐產品之SPF值符合標示值;市售防曬商品經本實驗加量及減量實驗分析,塗抹增、減量與體外測試的SPF值呈現一次線性關係,而在減量75%時,所有商品的SPF值,皆低於SPF值15以下。另外從市售商品中SPF實測值與產品中添加之防曬劑種類及其添加量有關,當防曬劑總添加量少於10%時,大部分SPF之實測值小於15;若防曬劑總添加量高於20%,則可得到較佳之SPF值;且物理性防曬劑與化學性防曬劑相互混合添加,其SPF值高於單一種類之添加。
    另外在自製的防曬產品中使用4種不同濃度比例的防曬劑,在乳化過程中藉以不同的攪拌速度,(200 rpm/min 、800 rpm/min、1600 rpm/min及均質機 ),經實驗結果顯示:以Kowax-32為乳化劑的B配方,以B-1配方在均質機的條件下所得乳液最小,實驗結果也發現在相同的配方下,當攪拌速度增強,能得到較小的乳液粒徑,而且隨著粒徑愈小,SPF值就愈高。
    This research main discussion affects against exposes to the sun factor of the product use effect,because of smudges thecommensurability against not to expose to the sun the product, (UV1000s) carries on vitro experiment using the SPF cryoscope, the discussion smudges the quantity to the SPF value difference, and understood that market commodity SPF indication value, whether can provide the indication value against to expose to the sun the effect; Moreover and against exposes to the sun the product in the laboratory modulation different sun-screening agent density, changes the agitation in the emulsion process the speed, the discussion particle size size change, regarding against exposes to the sun the product SPF value by it the influence.
    The 15 tanks were purchased in commercial products, according to FDA standard method of testing, only 6 cans of products labeled SPF values with values.The commercial sunscreen products after reduction of the experimental dosage and experimental analysis, smear increased, reduction and in vitro tests SPF values showed a linear relationship. In the reduction of 75%, all the SPF value of products, are lower than the SPF values of 15. Also from the commercial value of commodities measured SPF of sunscreen products, add categories and dosage, and when to add sunscreen less than 10% of the total, most of the measured value is less than SPF 15; If the sunscreen higher than 20% of the total added, the SPF value may be better; and physical sunscreens and chemical sunscreens to add another hybrid, the SPF values higher than a single type of add.
    Another home-made sunscreen products in 4 different concentrations using the ratio of sunscreen agents, emulsifying process by different stirring speed, (200 rpm / min, 800 rpm / min, 1600 rpm / min, homogenizer). The experimental results show: the Kowax-32 as emulsifier of formula B (B-1 formula) in the homogenizer emulsion obtained under the conditions of minimum , experimental results also found that the same formula, when the stirring speed increased, the emulsion particle size can be smaller. Moreover, with the smaller particle size, SPF value to be the higher.
    關聯: 校內校外均不公開,學年度:98,91頁
    顯示於類別:[化妝品應用與管理系(所)] 博碩士論文

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