桑枝、甘草、五倍子在美白化粧品之配方設計

Chia Nan University of Pharmacy & Science Institutional Repository > 藥理學院 > 化妝品應用與管理系(所) > 博碩士論文 > Item 310902800/23071

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標題:	桑枝、甘草、五倍子在美白化粧品之配方設計 The formula design of Ramulus mori, Glycyrrhizae radix, Galla chinensis on skin whitening cosmetics
作者:	陳彙淳
貢獻者:	林清宮嘉南藥理科技大學：化妝品科技研究所
關鍵字:	酪胺酸酶五倍子甘草桑枝 tyrosinase Galla chinensis Glycyrrhizae radix Ramulus mori
日期:	2010
上傳時間:	2010-10-08 13:41:56 (UTC+8)
摘要:	提升膚色，擁有明亮白皙的肌膚一直是亞洲女性所追求的，在台灣保養品消費市場中，美白保養品的產品推出日新月異，且隨著消費者年齡增加，相關消費數字也跟著不斷攀升，所以開發具美白效果的產品一直是研究者努力的方向。近年來，消費者對於天然產品的使用越來越重視，使得中草藥化粧品開發成為一美容研究趨勢。本研究目的針對桑枝（Ramulus mori）、甘草（Glycyrrhizae radix）、五倍子（Galla chinensis ），以微波萃取（Microwave Extraction ）的方法，取其粗萃液，進行一系列的研究與開發，比較此三種中草藥萃取的活性。此外，將中草藥添加於化粧品配方中，並觀察其對於化粧品配方的顏色變化及穩定性，做配方探討。由實驗結果中得知，發現不管在體外酪胺酸酶活性抑制試驗或抗自由基氧化能力測試及總酚含量測定方面，五倍子均有不錯的效果。酪胺酸酶活性抑制試驗，對於體外酪胺酸酶的抑制率：五倍子＞桑枝＞甘草；而總酚含量測定為五倍子＞甘草＞桑枝。但本研究發現將中草藥乳液配方放置一段時間後，則五倍子乳液配方相較於另兩種中草藥乳液配方，其配方顏色容易因氧化或其它因素造成乳液顏色變化，經由一系列研究發現，若添加酸性物質將pH值調整為弱酸性時，則便能延緩其顏色變化。而五倍子中草藥粉末添加於氫氧化鈉皂中，容易有黑褐色塊及顏色分佈不均之現象，若將五倍子粉末添加於溶解再製備之透明皂基中，並以包覆方法減少五倍子皂與空氣的接觸，能減緩顏色變化，且製做過程較為簡易，因此為製做五倍子皂較為方便快速之製皂方法。從以上體外有效性評估試驗方面得知，以微波萃取方法取得的桑枝、甘草、五倍子粗萃液均有良好的效果，其中以五倍子效果最優，但在化粧品配方製做過程中，五倍子最容易產生配方顏色上的變化，使得配方較不穩定，因此將中草藥粗萃液分別配製成精華液配方，以進行人體試驗之有效性評估，發現在本研究中以甘草精華液對紫外線色斑具改善效果，另外在紫外線色斑及膚色改善方面以五倍子精華液的效果最好。 The aspiration for a whitening, lifted, and toned skin has always been at the Asian’s minds. In Taiwan, many companies have found a substantial and growing market in the skin care products, and therefore, attempted to explore extensively for new product launches. In recent years, the interests in herbal medicinal products, especially in the field of cosmetics and dermatology, have risen enormously. Accordingly, in this study, we aimed to investigate the feasibility of Chinese herbs as cosmetic additives and their manufacturing capacity for advanced/demanding skin care needs. Three Chinese herbs, Ramulus mori, Glycyrrhizae radix, and Galla chinensis were extracted by microwave extraction and the properties of melanin biosynthesis and antioxidant activity. The results showed that Galla chinensis exhibited the strongest inhibitory effects on the melanin biosynthesis, and the antioxidant activity of Galla chinensis was one and two order of magnitude higher than those of Glycyrrhizae radix and Ramulus mori, respectively. The positive correlation between antioxidant activity and total phenol content of Galla chinensis. However, the visible oxidation resulting in the development of the yellow-brown color changes of Galla chinensis extracts subjected to the traditional Chinese herb lotion formula in a time- and temperature-dependent manner was clearly observed, while the influence could be improved by decreasing pH values. These results demonstrated that the remarkable effectiveness of Galla chinensis on antioxidation, as well as inhibition of melanin synthesis, and moreover, the commercial potential of formulated cosmetic products. The results of traditional Chinese herb serum formula in vivo test exhibited the Glycyrrhizae radix serum formula has effect on UV spot; besides, the Galla chinensis serum formula showed the strongest improvement effects on the UV spot and the color of skin
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