| 摘要: | 文獻記載， 許多中草藥具有各種美膚功效， 近年來含中草藥成分之化粧品已成為發展的趨勢，尤其東方人喜歡白，有一白遮三醜之觀念，認為白有高貴清新之象徵，且亞洲市場保養美白類之產品需求量高，深具發展潛力。
本實驗使用苦瓜（Momordica charantia L.）、荷花（Nelumbo nucifera G.）、香水蓮（Nymphaea lotus L.）、當歸（Angelica sinensis D.）和丹參（Salvia miltiorrhiza B.）等中草藥，評估其抗氧化、美白、細胞毒性等活性測試，再挑選活性較佳者，添加於化妝品配方中，並探討中草藥於美白化妝品上之功效評估。
結果顯示，香水蓮在抗氧化測試上 ABTS+．自由基 SC50 為 0.0025 mg/mL ，甚至優於 Trolox 0.0029 mg/mL，荷花為0.013 mg/mL，苦瓜籽為0.014 mg/mL，丹參為 0.018 mg/mL 也具有不錯之效果。DPPH．自由基清除能力之 SC50 香水蓮為 0.0067 mg/mL，趨近 Trolox 0.0045 mg/mL，丹參為0.021 mg/mL。
美白活性測試方面，抑制酪胺酸酶（Tyrosinase）效果以荷花與香水蓮混合最強， IC50 為 0.11 mg/mL，其次是荷花 0.52 mg/mL，熊果素（Arbutin）為 0.44 mg/mL。使用中草藥複方在抑制Tyrosinase效果，當荷花濃度在 0.5 mg/mL 抑制率為 52.76%，維生素 C（L-ascorbic acid）濃度在 0.1 mg/mL 抑制率為 65.73%，0.5 mg/mL 的Arbutin 抑制率為 58.28%，當荷花加入0.1 mg/mL 的 L-ascorbic acid 抑制率提升至 97.67%，加入 0.1 mg/mL 的桑枝抑制率提升為 90.05%，加入 0.5 mg/mL 的Arbutin抑制率提升至 76.30%，顯示美白中草藥複方萃取物其對於Tyrosinase抑制率，皆比原本單一之美白中草藥萃取物抑制效果更為佳。
將具美白活性之中草藥萃取物應用於乳液配方中，進行膚質評估與皮膚色差評估，結果顯示，美白中草藥複方確實能夠增進美白效果，且全臉膚質診斷儀測試結果乳液B（活性成分添加香水蓮、荷花）對於色斑、毛孔、原生紫質、紫外線色斑皆獲得改善。故此中草藥複方之配方，未來在美白與多功效之中草藥複方化粧品上極具有開發之潛力。
According to the previous dowments, many Chinese herbs are with skin thera peutic benefits. In recent years, the cosmetic products with Chinese herbs active ingredients have been a kind of tendency. Because Asiaw attach importance to skin whitening, whitening cosmetic products have a lot of requirement in ASIA market.
This experiment used many kinds of Chinese medicinal herb, including Momordica charantia L., Nelumbo nucifera G., Nymphaea lotus L., Angelica sinensis D., Salvia miltiorrhiza B. etc.. We evaluated the extraction by antioxidation test, inhibition tyrosinase activity assay, MTT assay and so on. Next step, we chose the strong activty of extraction to add in whitening cosmetics. We evaluated the whitening cosmetic by in vivo.
On the anti-oxidation tests, ABTS free radical scavenging ability of Nymphaea lotus L. showed SC50 was 0.0025 mg/mL, its better than Trolox. DPPH free radical scavenging ability showed the SC50 of Nymphaea lotus L. was 0.0067 mg/mL, and the SC50 of Trolox was 0.0045 mg/mL.
Inhibition tyrosinase activity assay, the IC50 of Nymphaea lotus L. and Nelumbo nucifera G. mixture was 0.11 mg/mL. And the results show that add Vit C and Morus alba L. appropriately, can increase inhibition tyrosinase acitivity of Nelumbo nucifera G., Namely, whitening compound herbal extracts for inhibition tyrosinase activity, are better than the original single-whitening herbal extracts inhibit the effect more good.
Apply the Chinese medicinal herb with whitening activity on the emulsion formula to perform skin nature appraisal and the skin chromatic aberration appraisal. Finally it demonstrated that the whitening can improve whitening effect. The emulsion B (active constituent increase Nymphaea lotus L, Nelumbo nucifera G.), not only had whitening effect but also color spot, the pore, the primary purple nature, the ultraviolet ray color spot can keep improvement after overall skin inspection . In the future, the Chinese medicine herb will have well develop in whitening and Multiple - effects cosmetic products. |
