| 摘要: | 臭氧層的破洞逐年擴大，使得紫外線到達地球表面的量也不斷增加，皮膚經過紫外線的照射後更容易產生皮膚變黑、光老化，甚至會造成皮膚癌，因此使用防曬產品來保護自己免於紫外線的傷害是很重要的，但化學性防曬成分易受光照而變性失去防曬能力，因此本研究針對添加具有強抗氧化活性及具有吸收紫外線之天然物萃取物來評估防曬霜之防曬能力。
天然物萃取物做為原料添加於化粧品中，在市面上廣為消費者青睞，尤其更符合消費者的健康、天然、低危害的訴求。本研究選擇的天然物之嘉寶果（Jaboticaba）、荷（Lotus）、石蓮花（Houseleek），以不同部位萃取物測試其抗氧化、美白、細胞毒性等試驗，進而添加於防曬霜中評估其防曬能力的變化。另外，亦選用具有紫外線吸收之中草藥–欖仁葉、荷葉、菟絲子、牡丹皮，添加防曬霜中，藉此探討天然物萃取物在防曬產品上的應用。
結果顯示，清除 DPPH．自由基效果最佳為蓮子外膜（SC50：0.0047 mg/mL）；Trolox 等價抗氧化能力最佳為嘉寶果籽水萃物（6215 μmol of Trolox/g）；pUC 119 DNA 電泳評估防護 DNA 作用以嘉寶果籽水萃物最具效果， λ/Hind Ⅲ DNA 電泳評估防護 DNA 作用則為嘉寶果樹莖效果最佳；總酚含量以嘉寶果籽水萃物與蓮子外膜含量最高（520 mg of GAE/g、507 mg of GAE/g）；MTT試驗在濃度 0.1 mg/mL 情況下皆有70%以上之細胞存活率，故其可應用在化粧品上。
防曬測試結果首先以紫外線/可見光分光光度計評估將天然物萃取物各別添加於防曬成分 Parsol MCX （octyl methoxycinnamate）或 Parsol 1789 （4-tert-butyl-49-methoxydibenzoylmethane）溶液中，觀察其 200-600 nm 的吸收光譜圖，其中以 NN-SM 可增加 Parsol MCX 溶液在 310 nm 之吸光強度最為明顯（提升 0.500），Parsol 1789 溶液在添加天然物萃取物後雖然吸光度有提升，但不如 Parsol MCX 溶液顯著，故本研究以 Parsol MCX 為主要防曬霜之防曬成分添加具抗氧化之天然物萃取物進行產品之 SPF 測試，結果顯示具有抗氧化力之天然物萃取物，可以提升防曬霜的 SPF 值，另外，亦顯示配方添加具吸收紫外線之中草藥亦可提升防曬霜之 SPF 值，並可使產品穩定，此實驗結果可提供未來開發防曬化粧品之資訊及中草藥在防曬化粧品之應用。
The quantity and intensity of UV that reaches the surface have increased, because the hole of ozone layer was gradually expanded. Since UV cause melanism, photoaging, and skin cancer to the human skin, it is important that using sunscreen products protects yourself. The chemical type of sunscreen composition might be degenerated to lose the ability by sun light. Therefore, the study was on the sunscreen effect by adding antioxidant activity of natural products.and UV absorption activity of Chinese herbal medicines.
The application of natural product as a component of the cosmetic product is a trend at present in the cosmetic industry, because the orientations conform the consumer demands for health, natural, low-hazard demand. In this study, the natural products are jaboticaba, lotus, and houseleek. The extraction of the natural products were researched the effect of antioxidant, whitening, cytotoxicity, etc.. Then, the extraction added to the sunscreen, and assessed the sunscreen effect. In addition, UV absorption activity of Chinese herbal medicines which were Terminalia catappa L. leaf, Nelumbo nucifera G. leaf, Cuscuta chinensis Lam. seed, Paeonia suffruticosa Andr. root bark added to the sunscreen, and assessed the sunscreen effect. By this way, we could investigate the extraction of natural products using in sunscreen.
The results showed that the extraction of lotus outer membrane showed the minimum scavenge concentration in DPPH radical assay (SC50: 0.0047 mg/mL); the extraction of jaboticaba seed showed the highest-level value in trolox equivalent antioxidant capacity assay(6215 μmol of Trolox/g); the extraction of jaboticaba seed showed the most effective of protection pUC 119 DNA, and the extraction of jaboticaba stem showed the most effective of protection λ/HindⅢ DNA; in total phenol content assay, the extractions of lotus outer membrane and jaboticaba seed were the highest-level value(520 mg of GAE/g, 507 mg of GAE/g); the extractions of jaboticaba seed, fresh lotus fruit, and lotus outer membrane had slightly toxic when the concentration is higher than 0.1 mg/mL, applications need more attention.
The results of sunscreen effect showed that the extraction of natural products could promote the absorbance of Parsol MCX solution at 310 nm, and the extraction of NN-SM was the most effective (promotion 0.500); the portion extraction of natural products could promote the absorbance of Parsol 1789 solution at 348 nm and 361nm, but the effect was lower than Parsol MCX. In SPF assay, sunscreen added antioxidant activity of natural products could promote SPF. In addition, UV absorption activity of Chinese herbal medicines added to the sunscreen, and assessed the sunscreen effect. Based on the above, the extractions of natural products have the potential to develop as a cosmetic raw material |
