| 摘要: | 微膠囊化的技術可應用在化妝品、食品、藥品之製造，深具開發應用
之潛力。本論文乃研究微膠囊技術於化妝品製劑之開發與應用，同時期望
能將研發產品商品化使之具有商業生產價值。
研究之初，選擇四種化妝品常用的活性成分，即：傳明酸、維生素C
磷酸鎂鹽、Q10、神經醯胺等，分別添加適量的膽固醇、氫化大豆磷酸膽鹼
等脂質，利用高頻率超音波震盪探針加以乳化，再以奈米薄膜擠出器將之
製成奈米化的微脂粒。微膠囊的製備則選用包括YJM01-03、 Ethocel、
udragit E-100 等材質做為微膠囊的殼材，並添加適量界面活性劑(Span 80、
Tween 20 或MS)，以凝聚-相分離法, 熔融分散冷卻法嘗試分別包覆四種活
性成分微脂粒。
研究結果發現，經選用適當的處方，最終所製得的微脂粒經穿透式電
子顯微鏡分析，其粒徑範圍在200 nm 至300 nm 之間，已達奈米階層。在
微膠囊製備方面，為了達到能包覆上述微脂粒成分，且能妥適均勻塗抹於
皮膚表面的目的，經由多次試驗最後選用以YJM-03 為包覆璧材，同時添加
適量的介面活性劑Span80，以熔融分散冷卻法所製備的微膠囊，其外型呈
現明亮光澤，直徑大小約為2 mm，核心微脂粒成分之包覆率約為31% ~
34%。由熱分析儀檢測，熔點為41.81 ℃，稍高於體表溫度，因此經以皮膚
II
塗抹測試發現，其性質柔軟易抹，容易推散而不留殘屑，最能符合本研究
所追求的之目標。
最後，為了提升產品之商品價值，在製備微膠囊過程中嘗試以法定的
化妝品油性色料將包覆璧材染色成四種顏色，除了能區分所包覆成分之種
類外，也有增進產品誘人的外觀。最後將製備所得的微膠囊以一定的比率
分散於透明凝膠中即成為最終商品化產品。
Microencapsulation is a potential technique that can be applied in the
development of cosmetics, food and medical preparations. This study was
focused on the development and application of microencapsulation technique in
the cosmetic products, and, in the meanwhile, we also attempted to
commercialize the developed products, enabling it to have the commercial
production value.
Initially, the liposome preparations of four commonly used active
ingredients of cosmetics, i.e. tranexamic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate,
Coenzyme Q10 and ceramide, were respectively made by adding optimal
quantities of lipid materials including cholesterol and hydrogenated soybean
phosphatidylcholine, and homogenated using a ultrasonic probe under high
frequency, and subsequently extruded through a nanometer extruder. The four
liposome preparations were served as the core of microcapsule. The preparation
of microcapsule were conducted to a series of procedures that comprise the
comparative selection of a suitable shell material (YJM01-03, Ethocel and
udragit E-100), an optimal quantity of surfactant (Span 80, Tween 20 and MS),
and the suitable microencapsulation method (coacervation-phase separation
method or cooling meltable dispersion method).
The results of the study found that, after selection an optimal formulation,
the particle size of the finally obtained liposome was ranged from 200 to 300 nm,
achieving to the nanometer level, by the transmitted electric microscopic
analyses. In the aspect of preparation of microcapsule, in order to achieve
embedding of liposome and to easily and evenly smear on the skin surface,
through repeated experiments, YJM-03 was eventually selected as the shell
material and Span 80 as the surfactant, using cooling meltable dispersion
method. The outer surface of microcapsule appeared bright and lustered, the
IV
diameter was about 2 mm and the embedded rates of the core liposome were
between 31%~34%.The melting point was 41.81 , after ℃ examined with
differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), slightly higher than .that of body
temperature. Therefore, the smear test on human skin showed that it can be
easily and evenly rubbed without any residue, closely meeting to our research
goals.
Finally, In order to raise the commercial value of the product, the
embedding shell material have had ever been stained with four different colors
with officially legal oily pigments, it not only to differentiate the different
embedded liposome ingredient, but also can improve the attractive appearance
of the product. The obtained microcapsules were then dispersed in the
previously made transparent gel with consist ratios and this became the final
commercialized products. |
