| 摘要: | 台灣化粧品保養市場一年高達新台幣600到800億元，全球化粧品市場更高達2020億美金(折合新台幣約6兆8680億元) 而抗老化、抗皺相關訴求的產品又占其總銷售的4成以上，而全球各大化粧品廠商無不積極研發相關產品或找替代的有效性原料，故了解區域性皮膚老化相當重要，本研究提供一個台灣女性了解皮膚老化指標與皮膚(in vivo)評估系統。
本研究的方法是以130位台灣健康女性，5~59歲，每10歲一個年齡層區分，區分為六種年齡層區間 ( 5~9歲、10~19歲、20~29歲、30~39歲、40~49歲、50~59歲 )，來探討不同年齡層皮膚彈性變化。實驗用皮膚彈力儀（Cutometer SEM 580），探討皮膚各年齡層彈性變化；並以量化數據R5 、R6值表示，R5 值表示立即收縮量與立即變形量(Ur/Ue)之比值，R6 值表示延遲擴張量比上立即變形量(UV/Ue)。R5(Ur/Ue)數值越高代表皮膚彈力越好，R6 值則反之。
結果顯示:1.) R5(Ur/Ue)，隨著年齡層上升而下降；其額頭R5值在5~29歲前平均值皆高於總平均值(0.79+0.14 Ur/Ue)，而彈性較高點是在年齡層5~9歲時(0.91+0.08 Ur/Ue)，較差則在50歲後(0.64+0.13Ur/Ue)。2.)臉頰R5平均值在5~29歲前亦高於總平均值(0.73+0.15 Ur/Ue)，而彈性較高點在年齡層5~9歲時(0.91+0.06 Ur/Ue)，較低點則仍在50歲以後(0.56+0.73 Ur/Ue)。3.)R6(Uv/Ue)在額頭部位測得總平均值(0.24+0.06Uv/Ue)，在臉頰部位總平均值(0.19+0.06 Uv/Ue)，額頭與臉頰肌膚R6值呈現相同趨勢，較高點均在50歲後，平均值分別為(0.3+10.07Uv/Ue)與(0.25+0.06 Uv/Ue)，較低點在年齡層5~9歲時，平均值各為(0.17+0.04Uv/Ue)和(0.15+0.04 Uv/Ue)。
顯示隨著年齡上升，其皮膚的彈性值R5有一定降低的趨勢，由此可建立(1)不同年齡層之台灣女性皮膚彈性之下降趨勢之評估標準。(2)可做為評估抗老化化粧品對於皮膚彈性變化的依據。
The annual cosmetics market value in Taiwan is between 60,000 to 80,000 million NT dollars and it even reaches 0.202 trillion US dollar worldwide (about 6.868 trillion NT dollars). Among them, relative products of anti-aging and anti-wrinkle cover over 40% of its sales value. Therefore, all famous cosmetics companies aggressively put their every effort to search any relative products or effective raw materials. The effective way of in vitro evaluation of skin elasticity lies on anti-collagenases volatility. However, the in vivo evaluation result plays an important role for skin absorption under normal condition. This research will discuss various skin elasticity covering all age ranges and
build skin elasticity data of female people in Taiwan. Its research result offers a reference to the in vivo evaluation for the relative products.
This research studies the changes of different skin elasticity on various ages, based on 130 Taiwan female , age from 5 – 59, every 10 ages for one age-group, total in 6 age-group. ( 5-9 age-group, 10 -19 age-group, 20 – 29 age-group, 30 – 39 age-group, 40 – 49 age-group, 50 – 59 age-group).It quantifies data numbers of skin elasticity by using Cutometer SEM 580 instrument.
The conclusion shows that 1. R5(Ur/Ue) is falling down while the age-group getting higher. The forehead R5 value of 5 – 29 age-group is higher than that of total average value (0.79±0.14 Ur/Ue), the top skin elasticity point falls on 5 – 9 age-group (0.91±0.08 Ur/Ue) while the bottom point is on 50 age after (0.64± 0.13 Ur/Ue). 2. The cheek R5 value of 5 – 29 age-group is also higher than that of total average value (0.73±0.15 Ur/Ue), the top skin elasticity point falls on 5 – 9 age-group (0.91±0.06 Ur/Ue) as well, its bottom point is on 50 age after (0.56± 0.73 Ur/Ue). 3.The average R6 (Uv/Ue) value of forehead (0.24±0.06 Uv/Ue) has the same trend as that of cheek (0.19±0.06 Uv/Ue), the top points all fall on 50 age after, average values are (0.3±10.07 Uv/Ue) and (0.25±0.06 Uv/Ue) respectively, the bottom point falls on 5 – 9 age-group, average values are (0.17±0.04 Uv/Ue) and(0.15±0.04 Uv/Ue) respectively.
The research result can be used to create skin elasticity standards and evaluation of skin elasticity for various female in Taiwan. Through this standard evaluation system, it provides, 1. basis for appraisal of standard of declining trend Taiwan of feminine skin elasticity disparity in age level
2. basis for appraise the anti-aged cosmetics regarding the skin elasticity
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