| 摘要: | 自由基是造成皮膚老化的一個重要因素，因此許多抗老化化粧品因應而生。胜肽的組成可能有許多種方式，它的特性隨著胺基酸的種類及數目而有差異性。本研究藉由2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH)及2,2-Azinobis-3-ethyl benzothiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS)自由基試驗評估ALDENINE®三胜肽、EYESERYL®四胜肽、LEUPHAYL®五胜肽、ARGIRELINE®六胜肽清除自由基活性。再將胜肽進行0.3% H2O2處理且經 40 mJ/cm2 UV 照射產生 •OH 傷害 DNA 的保護試驗，再由DNA 的保護試驗中選出的ALDENINE®三胜肽，以50μM H2O2 經 10 mJ/cm2 UV 照射條件下產生 •OH 誘導黑色素瘤細胞（B16 melanoma cell）死亡，以不同濃度的ALDENINE®三胜肽進行的保護試驗。最後將ALDENINE®三胜肽添加至精華液中，研究對於皮膚毛孔及皮膚彈性是否有改善。
在TEAC 之測定中，ALDENINE®三胜肽、LEUPHAYL®五胜肽、ARGIRELINE®六胜肽在極低濃度都有不錯的抗氧化效果，其 SC50 各為0.0055±0.001%、0.42±0.05%、0.80±0.13%。而在 清除DPPH‧ 自由基能力之測定，ALDENINE®三胜肽、EYESERYL®四胜肽、ARGIRELINE®六胜肽有好的抗氧化能力，其SC50 之濃度分別為分別為0.95±0.05%、1.99±0.17%、3.02±0.80% 。而在•OH 使DNA 斷裂的保護試驗中，不管是pUC119、Marker DNA ，ALDENINE®三胜肽都具有較佳的保護效果， 其SC50為分別6.80%、4.89%。在細胞保護試驗中，ALDENINE®三胜肽在3%濃度下，可以提升32%的細胞生存率。
在人體上之有效性試驗，塗抹含ALDENINE®三胜肽精華液時，明顯減少受試者的毛孔數，及增加皮膚彈力度、皮膚緊實度，四週後平均毛孔數降低10.92％，皮膚彈力度增加15.63%而皮膚緊實度增加15.83%。
根據本實驗各種結果可推知，胜肽類化粧品其具有抗老化的效果就是因為抗氧化能力都很好，尤其是ALDENINE®三胜肽具有最強的抗自由基活性及最佳的DNA、細胞保護效果。未來許多抗老化化粧品都可以利用此研究來了解其抗氧化活性及細胞毒性。
Free radical is an important factor which caused the skin aging, therefore develops many antiaging cosmetic products . The composition of the peptide has many ways , its characteristic has the difference along with the amino acid type and the number .This research use 2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) and 2,2-Azinobis-3-ethylbenzo thiazoline-6-sulfonic acid (ABTS) free radical assay to evaluate the scavenging activities of tripeptide , tetrapeptide , pentapeptide hexapeptide. The better antioxidative peptide were taken to assay protect effect against radiation induced DNA damage in pUC119 plasmid DNA and λ-Hind Ⅲ Marker DNA. We inducesd B16 melanoma cell death in 50μM H2O2 and 10mJ/cm2 condition, and than we protect cell death by add different concentration of tripeptide . Finally we had application of the emulsion with tripeptide to study improvement of the pore reduction and skin elasticity.
In TEAC assay, tripeptide , pentapeptide , hexapeptide had better activity of scavenged ABTS‧+ free radical (SC50 =0.0055±0.001%、0.42±0.05%、0.80±0.13%, respectively). Tripeptide tetrapeptide hexapeptide had better activity of scavenged DPPH free radical (SC50=0.95±0.05%、1.99±0.17%、3.02±0.80%, respectively). To determine whether antioxidants protect pUC119, λ-Hind Ⅲ Marker DNA, tripeptide have excellent pUC 119 and λ-Hind Ⅲ Marker DNA protection ability（SC50, 6.80% and 4.89%）. In cell protect assay 3% tripeptide can improved 32% cell vitality .We apply emulsion with 3% tripeptide to assay efficiency experiment. Our emulsion can decreased 10.92% pore counts in four weeks, and increase 15.63% skin elasticity 15.83% skin firmness.
Various results of this experiment are reported the cosmetics with peptide had antiaging effect because its excellent antioxidative activity. Especially tripeptide have the strongest antiradical activity and the best protective effects on DNA and cell. The research provided a set of methods for evaluating antioxidative efficacy of antiaging cosmetics. |
