化粧品之研發一般以產品之高效能成份為主，但乳化劑對高效能成份之乳化安定上有其風險。故如何提升乳化劑對高效能成份之乳化效力，為本研究探討之方向。 本研究使用不同化學組合之乳化劑，與高效能添加物混合乳化，測試乳化粒徑大小及乳化均一度，做為乳化劑乳化高效能成份之乳化效力評估。其結果如下: 1.多元醇酯型對精油之乳化效力佳，但對中草藥萃取液之乳化效力差，Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate& Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate乳化劑，經測試後對精油之乳化粒徑大小，上層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在3.52μm以下、下層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在3.51μm以下，對中草藥萃取液之乳化粒徑大小，上層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在17.04μm以下、下層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在18.39μm以下。2.聚氧乙烯型具優越之乳化效力及廣泛之相容力，但唯對精油之乳化效力差，對中草藥萃取液及生技類原料乳化效力佳，Glyceryl Stearate and Steareth-25 and Ceteth-20 and Stearyl Alcohol乳化劑，經測試後對精油之乳化粒徑大小，上層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在3.23μm以下、下層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在21.29μm以下，對中草藥萃取液之乳化粒徑大小，上層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在3.14μm以下、下層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在2.63μm以下，對生技類原料之乳化粒徑大小，上層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在4.23μm以下、下層50%乳化粒徑大小分佈在4.24μm以下。 研究結果顯示，乳化劑之化學結構對高效能成份之乳化效力極為重要，有助於化粧品製造業在新品開發時，得到乳化劑與高效能添加物之較佳組合。 The research of cosmetics usually aims to produce highly effective ingredients that can be used in the products, but emulsifiers to highly effective ingredients often show substantial risk on thein emulsion stability. Thus, improving the emulsifiers to highly effective ingredients of emulsion effectiveness of cosmetics will be the objective of this research.
In this research, the different compositions of emulsifiers mixtures into highly effective ingredients were studied . To examine the sizes and distributions of emulsifying particles of active ingredients in the emulsifiers can be measured. The findings are as followings:
1. Polyhydric alcohol ester types aims the best as emulsifiers what? Essential oils or what kinds of the oils but the better on best the extracts from Chinese herbs. For example, after the aging test, the sizes and distributions of emulsifying particles thatemulsifier Polyglyceryl-10 Oleate& Polyglyceryl-2 Oleate produced on essential oils is size of particle of emulsification 50% on 3.52μm at the upper level and size of particle of emulsification 50% on 3.51μm at the lower level while on extracts from Chinese herbs is size of particle of emulsification 50% on 17.04μm at the upper level and size of particle of emulsification 50% on 18.39μm at the lower level.
2. Polyoxyethylene types have general emulsifying ability and extraordinary compatibility, but thein emulsifying ability worked the worst on the essential oils. For example, after the aging test, the size and distribution of emulsifying particle that emulsifier Glyceryl Stearate and Steareth-25 and Ceteth-20 and Stearyl Alcohol produced on essential oil is size of particle of emulsification 50% on 3.23μm at the upper level and size of particle of emulsification 50% on 21.29μm at the lower level, on extracts from Chinese herbs is size of particle of emulsification 50% on 3.14μm at the upper level and size of particle of emulsification 50% on 2.63μm at the lower level, and on bio-technological materials is size of particle of emulsification 50% on 4.23μm at the upper level and size of particle of emulsification 50% on 4.24μm at the lower level.
The findings show that whether the chemical structures of emulsifiers are compatible to all types of added-in ingredients is extremely crucial to the stability of emulsifying system. The findings provide a series of stable mixtures of emulsifiers and added-in ingredients, which can be provided to cosmetics industry as the reference to develop new products of suitable emulsifiers and highly effective added-in ingredients.
