|摘要: ||本研究主要探討抗老活性成分，視黃醇及視黃醇棕櫚酸酯於皮膚之經皮吸收，配方採用精華液，水包油乳液，油包水乳液劑型，添加不同濃度丙二醇，1,3丁二醇及甘油等保濕劑作為促進劑。經皮吸收後皮膚與收集液，以乙醇稀釋，超音波震盪萃取濾膜過濾，分析方法採用逆相高效液相層析法HPLC與紫外線UV檢測定量。實驗樣品數為六重複，經Grubbs test檢定離群值。本實驗發現未添加促進劑時，精華液中視黃醇及視黃醇棕櫚酸酯即具有經皮吸收效果，當添加促進劑時，經皮吸收的效果都比未添加時高，顯示促進劑有促進經皮吸收效果。而於精華液配方添加較低濃度丙二醇，1,3丁二醇及甘油等，顯著的增加經皮吸收，當添加較高濃度促進劑配方時，反而減少經皮吸收。比較不同劑型經皮吸收效果，含有視黃醇或視黃醇棕櫚酸酯之精華液或水包油乳液，經皮吸收率都高於油包水乳液。各種劑型配方條件下，穿皮收集液中都沒有檢出視黃醇棕櫚酸酯，顯示視黃醇棕櫚酸酯經皮吸收，部分被皮膚滯留，穿皮量極少，導致沒有檢出。
The purpose of this study is to investigate the percutaneous absorption of anti-aging active ingredients, retinol and retinyl palmitate, in the skin. Retinol and retinyl palmitate formulations were made by serum, oil-in-water and water-in- oil emulsion , a propylene glycol, 1,3-Butylene glycol or glycerin was added as a enhancer . After skin percutaneous absorption , the skin and the receptor solution were diluted with ethanol and filtered by ultrasonic concussion extract. The analytical method used reverse phase high performance liquid chromatography HPLC and ultraviolet UV detection to quantify retinol and retinyl palmitate. The number of experimental samples was six replicates and the outliers were determined by Grubbs test.
It was found that when no enhancer was added, the retinol and retinyl palmitate in the serum had percutaneous absorption effect, when adding different concentrations of propylene glycol, 1,3-Butylene glycol and glycerin, the effect of percutaneous absorption is higher than the enhancer is not added. Adding lower concentrations of propylene glycol, 1,3-Butylene glycol and glycerin in the serum can significantly increase the percutaneous absorption of retinol and retinyl palmitate. But when higher enhancer concentrations are added in the serum, the percutaneous absorption of retinol and retinyl palmitate is reduced.
Comparing the percutaneous absorption effects of different formulation, serum, oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsions of retinol and retinyl palmitate, the research shows that serum and oil-in-water emulsion percutaneous absorption rate is higher than the water-in-oil emulsion. In the percutaneous absorption study, retinol was detected at recertor solution in different retinol formulations, but retinol palmitate was not detected at recertor solution in different retinol palmitate formulations. It shows that most of the retinyl palmitate was retained by the skin, and the amount of receptor is extremely little, resulting in no detection.
The above results indicate that formulations, types and concentration of the enhancer, are major issue on the percutaneous absorption of the active ingredient in the cosmetic.