| 摘要: | 本研究透過人體皮膚長時間接觸3種植物油與1種合成酯製成的配方乳液，觀察皮膚表徵的變化，來了解使用天然植物油與合成酯的化粧品配方對於人體皮膚是否有不同的立即性反應與致粉刺性。同時並使用香桃木精油來實驗是否對於人體皮膚具有良好的抑制面皰功效。
在人體貼膚測試前，先利用5位受測者做貼布測試合成酯濃度對於人體皮膚傷害的閾值，將30%、15%、7.5%和0%的十六酸異丙酯(Isopropyl Palmitate, 以下簡稱IPP)用礦物油稀釋，再將0.2g沾於貼布，且貼於上背部7天，並同時額外調配30%的IPP與3%的香桃木精油，觀察是否有抑制面皰的功效。結果可發現，在15%以下的濃度作用於皮膚時，皮膚所受到的發炎損傷較不明顯，故後續實驗的油脂濃度將會以15%來配方。
因為用貼布測試的方式受測者皮膚會受到強烈的刺激，且這也不是正常使用化粧品的方式，可能會與實際產品使用特性有程度上的差異，所以後續實驗改用化粧棉濕敷的方式，用化妝棉浸濕2g的實驗組乳液，利用6位受測者的上背部連續14天每日濕敷20分鐘，並觀察膚質變化狀況：表皮皮脂含量、表皮水分含量、表皮紅黑變化與皮膚底層拍照。乳液的製備個別使用15%的IPP和3種植物油：橄欖油、葡萄籽油、澳洲堅果油，並額外調配一組含有15的IPP與1.5的香桃木精油，加上只含有水的空白組，共計6種試劑。
實驗結果發現，6組乳液經連續14天每日20分鐘的試劑敷貼，皮膚的表皮皮脂含量、表皮水分含量、表皮紅黑變化，皆仍無顯著的數據變化。從高倍數的皮膚拍攝照片可發現，有部分區域產生致紅或輕微發炎的現象，但皆無發現痘痘產生或面皰發炎等，以肉眼觀察也無發現明顯的粉刺數量產生。
故此實驗結果表明，在正常濃度下的乳液配方，合成酯與植物油的使用上於14天的測試，沒有明顯不同的致粉刺性。
In this study, human skin was exposed to three kinds of vegetable oils and one kind of synthetic ester to emulsions for a long time to observe the changes in skin characterization. For understanding whether or not cosmetic formulations using natural vegetable oils and synthetic esters have distinct and immediate reactions to human skin and comedogenic. At the same time, use the myrtle essential oil to test whether it has a good inhibition of acne for human skin.
Prior to the human body patch test, 5 test subjects were used to test the synthetic ester concentration threshold for human skin damage. 30%, 15%, 7.5% and 0% of Isopropyl Palmitate was diluted with mineral oil, and then 0.2g was applied to the patch and attached to the upper back for 7 days. A portion of 3% of the essential oil was used to observe the effect of inhibiting of acne. As a result, it was found that when the concentration is less than 15% on the skin, the inflammatory lesions on the skin are less noticeable, so the lipid concentration in subsequent experiments will be formulated at 15%.
Because the skin of the subject will be strongly stimulated by the patch test, and this is not a normal way of using cosmetics, there may be differences in the use characteristics of the actual product, so the next step is to use a cotton pad with 2g reagent. Applied for 20 minutes daily for 14 consecutive days to upper back of volunteers, and observed changes in skin texture: surface sebum measurements, surface hydration measurements, skin color measurements and skin condition photos. The emulsion was prepared using 15% Isopropyl Palmitate and 3 vegetable oils: olive oil, grape seed oil, and macadamia oil. And the emulsion prepared from isopropyl palmitate was containing 1.5% myrtle essential oil. And use water in the blank group. Therefore, prepare six kinds of reagents for this experiment.
The results of the experiment showed that after 6 consecutive application of reagents for 20 minutes in 14 days, skin surface sebum content, surface hydrotion content, and changes in skin erythema and melanin were still not significantly changed. Photographs taken from zoom in skin can reveal that some areas have caused redness or slight inflammation, but no acne has been produced. And compare test groups with blank group there didn’t increase comedones with naked eyes. |
