| 摘要: | 乳化劑型為一種熱力學不穩定的體系，一般市面上市售化妝品必須有2~3年的貨架壽命。研究乳化化妝品穩定性的變數，以得到穩定的乳化化妝品，可經由下列三個途徑來探討:乳化粒子的細小化、縮小內外相的比重差距、增加外相之黏度。本研究所使用的研究方式，以不同的乳化劑O/W (Emulgade® SUCRO PLUS、ABIL CARE XL 80)、W/O (OLIVEM® 900、ES-5300 Formulation Aid、ABIL EM 90)兩種類型為基礎，製作乳化化妝品配方，再添加不同比例的矽油(DC 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend、DC556)與植物油(酪梨油、乳木果油)來改善其穩定性。 探討配方對溫度老化及離心試驗的耐受性，藉由測量老化前後的黏度變化及粒徑分佈大小的變化，找出影響乳化化妝品穩定性的因素，獲得穩定的乳化配方。研究結果顯示，(1) Emulgade? SUCRO PLUS在的乳化系統中，自乳化能力不足以獲穩定乳化配方，提高乳化劑濃度，由3%提升5%，穩定性有上升趨勢，從原本只能穩定DC9041與酪梨油兩種油脂配方，提升到5%後能穩定四種油脂配方。(2) ABIL CARE XL 80在乳化系統中，自乳化能力不足以獲穩定乳化配方，添加其矽油與植物油亦無法改善其穩定性。(3) OLIVEM? 900在乳化系統中，自乳化能力不足以獲穩定乳化配方，提高乳化劑濃度，由3%提升5%，添加乳木果油能提升穩定性。(4) ES-5300 Formulation Aid在乳化系統中，自乳化能力不足以獲穩定乳化配方，由於乳木果油自身特性，添加乳木果油能提升穩定性。(5) ABIL EM 90在乳化系統中，自乳化能力不足以獲穩定乳化配方，由於乳木果油自身特性，添加乳木果油能提升穩定性。(6)在W/O三種乳化系統中，外向為油脂，由於添加80%的油脂比例，使得乳化劑的乳化能力不足已獲得穩定乳化配方，但由於乳木果油自身特性，在乳化系統中提高黏度，提升其穩定性。(7)乳化劑與油脂之結構和配方中油水比例會影響乳化系統的穩定性。(8)同配方之乳化劑搭配不同油脂會影響其流變及延展性。本研究結果提供(1)乳化劑、矽油和植物油於乳化化粧品之穩定協同相關性，(2)乳化化粧品流變行為與粒徑大小分佈變化相關性，可做為之開發乳化配方參考依據。
The emulsifier type is a thermodynamically unstable system, and generally the commercially available cosmetics must have a shelf life of 2 to 3 years. Studying the variables of the stability of emulsified cosmetics to obtain stable emulsified cosmetics can be discussed through the following three ways: the miniaturization of emulsified particles, the reduction in the proportion of internal and external phases, and the increase in the viscosity of the external phase.The research methods used in this study were different emulsifiers O/W (Emulgade® SUCRO PLUS, ABIL CARE XL 80), W/O (OLIVEM® 900, ES-5300 Formulation Aid, ABIL EM 90) The basis is to make an emulsified cosmetic formula, and then add different proportions of silicone oils (DC 9041 Silicone Elastomer Blend, DC556) and vegetable oil (avocado oil, shea butter) to improve its stability. The formulation's tolerance to temperature aging and centrifugation was explored. By measuring changes in viscosity before and after aging and changes in particle size distribution, the factors affecting the stability of emulsified cosmetics were identified and a stable emulsifying formula was obtained.The results of the study show that (1) Emulgade? SUCRO PLUS has insufficient self-emulsifying ability to stabilize the emulsified formula and increases the concentration of emulsifiers in the emulsification system. The emulsifier concentration increases from 3% to 5%, and the stability tends to increase. It can only be stabilized from the original. DC9041 and Avocado oil are two fat formulas that can stabilize four fat formulas when raised to 5%. (2) ABIL CARE XL 80 in the emulsification system, self-emulsifying capacity is not enough to obtain a stable emulsification formula, adding its oil and vegetable oil can not improve its stability. (3) In the emulsification system, OLIVEM? 900 has insufficient self-emulsifying ability to obtain a stable emulsifying formula, increasing the concentration of emulsifier, and increasing the emulsifier concentration from 3% to 5%. The addition of shea butter can increase the stability. (4) ES-5300 Formulation Aid In the emulsification system, the self-emulsifying ability is not sufficient to obtain a stable emulsifying formula. Due to the characteristics of shea butter, the addition of shea butter can increase the stability. (5) ABIL EM 90 in the emulsification system, self-emulsifying ability is not enough to obtain a stable emulsification formula, due to its own characteristics of shea butter, adding shea butter can improve stability. (6) In the three emulsifying systems of W/O, the outward direction is oil and fat, and the emulsifying ability of the emulsifier is insufficient to obtain a stable emulsifying formula due to the addition of 80% of the grease. However, due to the self-characteristic of shea butter, it is in the emulsifying system. Improve viscosity and increase its stability. (7) The ratio of oil to water in the structure and formulation of emulsifiers and greases will affect the stability of the emulsification system. (8) The use of different emulsifiers with the formulated emulsifier will affect its rheology and ductility.The results of this study provide (1) the stable synergistic correlation of emulsifiers, silicone oils and vegetable oils in emulsified cosmetics, and (2) the correlation between rheological behaviors of emulsified cosmetics and particle size distribution changes, which can serve as a reference for the development of emulsion formulations. |
