| 摘要: | 工業發展及科技進步，大量化學品(CFCs)被製造及應用，使得臭氧層遭受到破壞，致使紫外線照射地表量的劇增，過度曝曬就會引起皮膚的光傷害或老化。因此優質的防曬產品已成為市場大眾需求的主要化粧品品項。本實驗擬探討以GMS (Glyceryl Monostearate ， O/W劑型) 及 CDPOL (Cetyl Dimethicone copolyol，W/O劑型)作為主要的界面乳化系統，在系統內添加三種不同防曬劑，PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate)、 P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl-4-Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) 及TiO2 (Titanium Dioxide)，並搭配不同的增稠劑，透過乳化調製技術配製得不同防護性質的防曬產品。所得的防曬產品再進行各項物性評估包括儲存安定性、流變性、黏稠度、粒度大小及有效性防曬評估包括防曬係數(SPF)、 SR(Boots Star Rating，★)，並經由這些評估篩選出物性較為安定，並能美化肌膚之防曬化粧品，以做為量產產品之實務參考配方。
經由實驗結果及評估，選出最佳防曬化粧品為配方21，儲存安定性可達84天以上，防護效能為SPF50+；★★★，有良好的塗抹感，兼具修飾膚色效果，其配方組成如下：GMS 1.50%、C.C.T 4.00%、Squalane 3.00%、Finsolv TN 3.00%、Dimethicone 2.00%、P1789 3.00%、PMCX 5.00%、TiO2 2.00%、Amphisol K 0.64%、Rhodicare T 1.00%、D.W 74.26%、Germaben II 0.60%。
In the atmosphere, ozone layer depletion is to continue for several years due to a series of chlorofluorocarbon components(CFCs) from industrial manufacture. This is will result in the increasing amount of UV sunlight that reaches the earth’s surface. It is well known that an excessive exposure to UV radiation will cause skin photodamage and skin photoaging. The well-known harmful effects of UV radiation have led the increasing development of sunscreen products for consumer needs. The objective of the present study was to formulate sunscreens with various characteristics. GMS (Glyceryl Monostearate, O/W type) and CD pol (Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, W/O type) were selected as emulsifiers. The most widely used UV filters, PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate), P1789(4-Tert -Butyl-4-Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) and TiO2(Titanium Dioxide)were examined. A series of suncreams were formulated by the combination of the three UV filters with varying thickeners. These obtained suncreams were characteristed by determining their physicochemical properties including storage stability, viscosity, rheological behavior, particle size and estimating their effectiveness including SFP(sun protection factor) and SR；Boots Star Rating (protection UVA). In large amount manufacturing they will be the best formulary base and a desired sunscreen product will be successfully obtained.
Based on these findings, we have found some of elegant sunscreams. With high efficacy of SPF 50+；★★★, good stability at 45℃ testing for 84 days, good skin feel and improvement skin color, it is composed of GMS 1.50%, C.C.T 4.00%, Squalane 3.00%, Finsolv TN 3.00%, Dimethicone 2.00%, P1789 3.00%, PMCX 5.00%, TiO2 2.00%, Amphisol K 0.64%, Rhodicare T 1.00%, D.W 74.26%, Germaben II 0.60%. |
