| 摘要: | 彩妝化妝品主要目的在使用上能調整皮膚顏色，遮蓋雀斑及黑斑，還可以防禦來自紫外線的傷害；在粉體化妝品中往往會含矽油成分，因矽油在化妝品的主要功能為助於塗抹、賦予皮膚柔潤感等。而矽油於化妝品，有助於粉體效能提高以及降低化妝品的成本，但是矽油常常會造成化妝品不穩定而造成分離的現象。本研究主要探討粉體對於不同矽油種類的乳化化妝品的效能，探討效能與穩定性兩者之間的相關性。先選擇不同乳化劑，再以不同的矽油種類及濃度，最後按照粉體比例添加於乳化配方中，經交叉搭配探討對高溫加速試驗、離心作用、油水分佈、流變和色差的影響，進而得知可應用於乳化配方上的最佳效能與穩定條件。研究結果顯示：(I) 乳化劑和粉體的結構會影響乳化化妝品之穩定性。乳化劑結構和穩定性有關，粉體表面改質處理和配方包容性有關，粉體經表面改質處理的穩定性配方，穩定性較高。(II) 由流變與水分散失效能及ΔE效能結果得知較佳之選擇為：乳化劑WE 09 >EM 90，矽油種類G > D > T，矽油濃度5 % > 8 % > 10 % ，粉體P3M5 > P8 > P5 > P3。(III)依據穩定性和水分散失效能和ΔE來定義，篩選出最佳的配方為W3-G5-P3-M5、W3-G5-P8、W3-D5-P3-M5作為研究配方的基礎，開發既穩定又展色均勻的產品。由本研究結果，可提供開發既穩定又有高效能及延展性的含粉體及矽油之乳化化妝品，可作為研究配方的參考依據。
The main purpose of the usage of cosmetics is to adjust the skin color, cover freckles and dark spots. It also prevent the skin from UV damage. Powder form cosmetics often contains the ingredient of silicone oil. The main function of silicone oil in cosmetics is to assist applying the cosmetics on the skin, adding the sense of moisture and smoothness and etc. The silicone oil can enhance the efficiency of the powder form and lower the cost of the cosmetics. However, the silicone oil often caused separation phenomenon due to instability of the cosmetics.The study focused on the powder efficiency in the emulsifying cosmetics with different kinds of silicone oil. It discussed about the relevance between efficiency and stability. First, choose different emulsifiers. Then categorize by the kinds and concentration of different silicone oil. Lastly, according to the powders proportion, add them into the emulsion formulation. Viacross collocation, it discussed the effects of high temperature accelerated test, centrifugation effects, oil/water distribution, rheology and color difference. Therefore it learned the best applicable efficiency and conditions for stability, which can be applied to the emulsion formulation on.The result indicated that: (I) The structure of the emulsifier and powders will affect the stability of the emulsifying cosmetics. The structure of emulsifier and stability are relevant. Powder surface modification treatment and formulation inclusiveness are relevant. The stability formulation of the powder gone through surface modification treatment has higher stability. (II) From the result of efficiency of water loss and rheology, and efficiency result of ΔE, we learned that the better options are: Emulsifier WE 09 > EM 90, Silicone oil types G > D > T, Concentration of silicone oil 5% > 8% > 10%, powder form P3M5 > P8 > P5 > P3. (III) To define based on stability, water loss efficiency and ΔE, the best formulation has been sifted out. W3-G5-P3-M5, W3-G5-P8, W3-D5-P3-M5 will be the foundation of formulation research, to develop stable and uniform color dispersion products.From the result of this study, it provides stable, high efficiency and ductility development of emulsifying cosmetics including powder form and silicone oil. It also can be used as a reference for further formulation study. |
