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    Please use this identifier to cite or link to this item: http://ir.cnu.edu.tw/handle/310902800/29105


    標題: W/O防曬產品之開發
    The development of sunscreens with W/O system.
    作者: 冷佩真
    貢獻者: 化粧品應用與管理系
    張妙玲
    關鍵字: 有效性
    防曬係數(SPF)
    流變性質
    黏稠度
    防曬產品
    防曬劑
    油包水劑型
    Rheology
    Viscosity
    Sunscreen product
    UV filter
    Sunburn protection factor (SPF)
    W/O type
    Efficacy
    日期: 2014
    上傳時間: 2015-10-26 20:23:16 (UTC+8)
    摘要: 因工業快速開發,而臭氧層因氟氯碳化物的使用,使得大量紫外線照射至地表造成對人類皮膚的傷害,紫外線對於人類皮膚會造成很大的影響,嚴重者可能造成皮膚癌的產生。為了避免紫外線對皮膚的傷害,防曬產品的使用逐年大幅增加。而市售防曬產品劑型主要分為油包水(W/O)及水包油(O/W)劑型,其油包水(W/O)相較於水包油(O/W)劑型更具有良好防水及撥水性能,在市場上仍為開發重點之一。故本研究探討不同界面活性劑系統中,不同防曬成分及比例,對於防曬產品安定性及有效性影響,藉以篩選最佳之防曬配方,開發品質及安定性佳的 W/O 防曬產品。選擇界面活性劑做為乳化系統,而化學性防曬劑選擇 DHHB 及 P1789 及最具代表性之 OMC,物理性防曬劑選擇二氧化鈦。以不同比例及混和添加的方式,調製出不同防曬劑種類及濃度的防曬產品。分別放置室溫及45℃加速老化條件下,進行防曬產品的安定性、黏稠度及流變性質之物性評估及SPF有效性,依實驗結果評估篩選出具有高安定性及觸感皆佳之W/O 防曬產品。研究結果顯示以 LE 及 PGPH 界面系統所調製之基礎乳液及防曬產品,在儲存安定性表現較為優異。而黏度表現上,LE 界面體系可調製出黏稠度較低,觸感較佳且儲存安定性之配方。另外,四種界面體系中,添加 DHHB 之防曬產品,其 SPF 經時變化、光老化之表現均優於 P1789。此外,四種界面體系中,含有 5% P1789 之防曬劑其產品外觀皆出現不規則結晶顆粒析出。最後,添加二氧化鈦之配方其安定性及黏度表現均下降但 SPF 值有效性表現對 CP5 及 PGPH 搭配皆有增效效果。經由以上物性及有效性評估,選出最佳防曬產品為配方 25,儲存安定性可維持 60 天以上,具有良好塗抹性、黏稠度經時變化仍能維持一定稠度,防曬劑係數可達SPF 21.23,其配方組成如下:LE 3.00%、MYRITOL 318 4.00%、CETIOL CC 4.00%、T405 4.00%、OMC 5.00%、DHHB 1.00%、D.W 75.50%、GLYCERIN 2.00%、MgSO4?7H2O 1.00%、K300 0.50%。
    Ozone layer depletion has resulted in the increasing amount of UV sunlight that reaches the earth’s surface. This makes human skin bing in the risk of several harmful changes such as wrinkling, premature aging of the skin, hyperpigmentation macules and even skin cancer. People should avoid overexposure to sunlight during the daytime and/or wear sunscreens to protect their skin from UV damage. Many sunscreen products including w/o type and o/w type are available in commercial markets. Sunscreens with w/o type are more popular than o/w type due to its waterproof and lasting efficacy. However, poor storage stability and greasy feel are unexpected problems. The aim of this study was to develop an elegant w/o sunscreen. In order to formulate sunscreen products, four surfactants, CP5(Glyceryl Oleate (and) Polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleate (and) Olea Europaea (Olive) Oil Unsaponifiables), PGPH(Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate PGPH), EM 90(Cetyl PEG / PPG-10 / 1 Dimethicone), LE(PEG - 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate) were selected as emulsifiers. Morever, four chemicals, PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate), P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) and DBBH(Diethylamino Hydroxybenzoyl Hexyl Benzoate ), and TiO2 (Titanium oxide) were used as UV filters. In the beginning we formulated three kinds of emulsions as a control. And then we performed studies mixing different combinations of the UV filters with the four kinds of w/o emulsions containing various kinds of emulsifiers and investigated their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, storage stability, and the efficacy during typical accelerated test. The results indicated that using LE and PGPH as emulsifiers provide better storage stability than other two emulsifiers. Especially, the obtained sunscreen emulsions including LE have the expected character of both low viscosity and better stability. In efficacy variance, incorporating a combination of PMCX with DBBH into sunscreen products obtained a better photostability and thermostability than a combination of PMCX with P1789. In addition, when P1789 was incorporated into each tested emulsifier, we found that the obtained products appeared sedimentation with crystal. Finally, adding TiO2 lower viscosity of sunscreen products and impact on the storage stability. Among the four emulsifiers, only CP5 and PGPH have synergic effect in SPF when TiO2 present in products.Based on these findings, a desired sunscreen product (F25) was obtained. With high SPF of 21.23, good stability at 45℃testing for 60 days, good photostability, esthetic appearance, and good skin feel, it is composed of LE 3.00%、MYRITOL 318 4.00%、CETIOL CC 4.00%、T405 4.00%、OMC 5.00%、DHHB 1.00%、D.W 75.50%、GLYCERIN 2.00%、MgSO4?7H2O 1.00%、K300 0.50%。
    關聯: 網際網路公開:2017-09-04,106頁
    Appears in Collections:[化妝品應用與管理系(所)] 博碩士論文

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