探討美白劑在不同pH值下抑制酪胺酸酶效果及混搭之協同效應

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Title:	探討美白劑在不同pH值下抑制酪胺酸酶效果及混搭之協同效應 Inhibitory effect of skin-whitening agents on tyrosinase activity under varying pH conditions and the synergistic effect of skin-whitening agent mixtures
Authors:	林紀妤
Contributors:	化粧品應用與管理系何文岳楊朝成
Keywords:	麴酸對苯二酚抗壞血酸 α-熊果素酪胺酸酶美白協同效應 Synergistic effect Kojic acid Hydroquinone L-ascorbic acid α-arbutin Tyrosinase Skin whitening
Date:	2015
Issue Date:	2015-10-21 17:08:08 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	美白一直是亞洲女性追求的目標，而黑色素的過度表現與累積，除了影響美觀以外，也容易引起各類皮膚色素沉著的疾病，酪胺酸酶是黑色素合成的關鍵酵素，可藉由抑制酪胺酸酶活性與加速含黑色素的角質細胞新陳代謝來達到美白之功效。本實驗將探討α-arbutin、L-ascorbic acid、hydroquinone、kojic acid、magnesium ascorbyl phosphate、sodium ascorbyl phosphate、tranexamic acid 於 pH 3 ~ pH 8 及不同樣品混搭在抑制蘑菇酪胺酸酶活性之結果，以及對於細胞毒性及細胞內酪胺酸酶活性之影響。實驗結果顯示，在抑制蘑菇酪胺酸酶活性方面，樣品大部分於 pH 3 時，抑制效果為最佳，不同樣品混搭以 kojic acid 混搭 hydroquinone有達到協同效應，在終濃度相同情況下，混搭比例以 0.7 % kojic acid與 0.3 % hydroquinone 混搭效果為最好；kojic acid 混搭 hydroquinone時，在細胞毒性試驗中，會隨著 kojic acid 的比例增加而減少hydroquinone 的毒性，而在細胞內酪胺酸酶活性試驗中，也會隨著kojic acid 的比例增加，而減少細胞內酪胺酸酶活性。 Skin whitening has invariably been a skin effect desired among Asian women. Overexpression and accumulation of melanin influence the overall aesthetics of a person and easily induce various types of skin pigmentation diseases. Tyrosinase is a key enzyme for melanin synthesis. Inhibiting the activity of this enzyme and accelerating the metabolism of melanocytic skin cells yield skin-whitening effects. In this study, α-arbutin, L-ascorbic acid, hydroquinone, kojic acid, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, and tranexamic acid were used. The inhibitory effects that mixtures containing either two of the aforementioned substances have on tyrosinase activity were investigated under varying pH conditions ( pH=3~8 ). Subsequently, the effects of these mixtures on cytotoxicity and intracellular tyrosinase activity were determined. The experimental results showed that the samples most of the optimally inhibited the activity of mushroom tyrosinase under a pH condition of 3. Mixing kojic acid with hydroquinone exerted a synergistic effect; in addition, when 0.7% kojic acid was mixed with 0.3% hydroquinone, the optimal mixing effect under the same final concentration was achieved. For this mixture, the cytotoxicity test revealed that the toxicity of hydroquinone decreased with increasing proportion of kojic acid. The test results for intracellular tyrosinase activity showed that this aspects also decreased as the proportion of kojic acid was increased.
Relation:	網際網路公開：2020-12-31，學年度：103，116頁
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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