| 摘要: | 紫外線易造成肌膚老化及病變，故消費者對於防曬產品的需求，日益增加。而防曬產品之穩定性對於其防曬效能有相當直接性的影響。故本研究將探討於不同的界面活性劑系統中，不同防曬有效成分以及光安定劑的有無，對於防曬產品安定性及有效性之影響，以篩選最佳之防曬配方。 首先選擇GMS(Glyceryl Monostearate)、CG 90(Cetearyl Glucoside)、CD pol(Cetyl DimethiconeCopolyol)及RADIAMULS POLY 2253K(Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate)/ RADIASURF 7758(SorbitanIsostearate)四種界面活性劑做為乳化系統，而防曬有效成分則選擇最具代表性的PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate)與P1789(4-Tert-Butyl-4´-Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane)當防曬劑，以單一添加及混合添加的方式，調製出各不同防曬劑含量且不同劑型(W/O、O/W)的防曬產品；並選購3種市售防曬產品與自製防曬產品做比較；而後將自製與市售防曬產品分別放置於室溫及45℃加速老化條件下，並進行物性評估且以in vitro SPF測定儀(Ultraviolet Transmittance Analyzer)測定其SPF值。此外，也進行光老化實驗，觀察其SPF之經時變化；另外，再添加光安定劑到自製配方中，以觀察光安定劑之有無對於防曬產品的物性、有效性及光安定性之影響。 研究結果顯示GMS系統(O/W)加速老化前後，經流變儀測定均顯示切變減稀的流體性質，CG 90系統(O/W)則是在高濃度混合添加之配方，加速老化前後於shear rate 750.00s-1範圍內都呈現切變減稀的性質；而CD pol系統(W/O)與R2253/R7758系統(W/O)加速老化前後則分別於shear rate 487.50s-1及150.00s-1的範圍內皆為切變減稀的流體性質，表示O/W劑型的產品有較好的塗抹觸感。界面系統之儲存安定性的順序為CG90(49天)>R2253/R7758(35天)>CD pol(7天)＝GMS(7天)。在黏稠度的穩定性方面以R2253/R7758界面系統之穩定性最高，其次為CG 90界面系統；而CD pol與GMS黏稠度的穩定性較差，黏稠度皆有大幅下降的情形。在粒度大小方面GMS、CG 90及R2253/R7758之界面系統，於加速老化後乳化粒子均變化不大，而CD pol乳化粒子則有明顯增大。 防曬係數SPF有效性方面，於所有界面系統中，不論是單一添加或混合添加，當防曬成分濃度越高SPF有效性亦隨之提高，均顯示防曬成分濃度與SPF值之間成正比之關係，如CG 90界面系統防曬成分單一添加之配方r值為0.998，斜率為1.275；而防曬成分混合添加之配方r值為0.990，斜率為4.218。另外，CD pol界面系統不論於單一添加或混合添加所提供之SPF值均較低，且防曬成分濃度與SPF值之間的相關性也較差。然而經45℃加速老化後，於所有界面系統中，防曬成分混合添加之配方SPF值的變化均較單一添加大；且於防曬成分單一添加時，CD pol界面系統SPF下降的幅度最為明顯；於防曬成分混合添加時，則以GMS界面系統有較明顯的降幅，而CD pol界面系統則是SPF值變化幅度過大，顯示均質性不佳。 而在光安定性方面，不論何種界面系統，其添加光安定劑後，SPF值之降幅均有明顯減緩的趨勢，顯示於不同界面系統中添加光安定劑並不影響其光安定性，且光安定劑對防曬產品具有光保護之作用。 另外，市售產品方面顯示包材內不含鋼珠之產品有較高之儲存安定性，而含有鋼珠之產品則於室溫下就已發生相分離，非常不安定，因此產品內部才會附有鋼珠，讓消費者於使用前先搖一搖，暫時改善相分離的問題。 綜合以上物性及有效性評估，最佳之防曬配方為配方16(PMCX10%+P1789 5%+光安定劑)，具有高的SPF(68.21)與符合美學的外觀，且儲存安定性可達49天。其配方組成如下: CG 90 1.50%、Mineral oil 12.00%、Parsol MCX 10.00%、Parsol 1789 5.00%、Oxynex ST 0.50%、GermabenII 0.64%、TEA 0.10%、Carbopol 1342 0.104%、D.W 70.156%。
Ultraviolet light is an important factor to cause wrinkling, premature aging of the skin, hyperpigmentation macules or even skin cancer. People should protect their skin from UV-induced damage. It is well known that suncreams’ application is a good way to avoid the skin damage due to the overexposure to the sunlight during daytime. This led to the increasing needs for suncreams in the market. A series of suncreams were approved and applied, but some of them can cause photodegradation under extreme conditions such as UV radiation and evolved temperature. It will result in physical instability and the lower efficacy of the suncreams. Hence, the goal of the study is to optimize suncreams that can promise storage stability, constant efficacy of the product, and the safety of consumer’s application. In order to formulate elegant suncreams, four different types of surfactants were selected as emulsifiers. They are GMS(Glyceryl Monostearate)、CG 90(Cetearyl Glucoside)、CD pol(CetylDimethiconeCopolyol) and RADIAMULS POLY2253K(Polyglyceryl-3Polyricinoleate)/RADIASURF7758(SorbitanIsostearate). Two chemical UV filters, PMCX (Octyl Methoxy Cinnamate), P1789 (4-Tert-Butyl-4´-Methoxy Dibenzoyl Methane) were examined because they were the most widely used UV filters. In the beginning we use the surfactants to formulate four different emulsions without UV filters as a control. And then we performed studies using the incorporation of single filter and a combination of the two filters into each control emulsion containing various kinds of emulsifiers and investigated their physicochemical properties including viscosity, rheological behavior, particle size and distribution, and intro SPF efficacy during typical accelerated test. In addition, a photostabilizer was added to stabilize SPF value of the suncreams. The suncreams’ properties were compared with commercial products. In relating to physicochemical properties, the results showed that all the formulated suncreams exhibited shear-thinning rheological behavior before and after accelerated test. Obviously, they can provide good skin feel when they are applied onto the skin. Among the emulsifier systems, CG90 exhibited better storage stability than other three emulsifiers. The order of the storage stability is CG90(49days)>R2253/R7758(35days)>CDpol(7days)=GMS(7days).But R2253/R7758 system possess the smaller change (η/η=0.77 at 35 days) in viscosity than CDpol system (η/η=0.55 at 7days). Relating to the particle size, CDpol has the largest variance and show the occurrence of coalescense after accelerated test. In addition, the particle size increased with increasing amount of UV fitters in sunscreen products in CG90、R2253/R7758 and GMS system. On the other hand, the efficacy of all the sunscreen products was measured. These results indicate that the efficacy was well correlating with the amounts of the used UV filters. Regardless of incorporating single UV filter or a combination, CG90 system contributed a higher SPF (19.00 of SPF at 10% PMCX) and a better correlation coefficient (r=0.998 for single PMCX; r=0.990 for a combination) than CDpol system (14.80 of SPF at 10% PMCX; r=0.969 for single PMCX; r=0.960 for a combination). In addition, all the obtained suncreams with a combination exhibited a larger change in SPF before and after accelerated test than those with single PMCX. Besides, we found that the efficacy of the sunscreen formulations early decreased under accelerated test and photo-aging. Fortunately, it was found that a photstabilizer can contribute to a constant efficacy and good physicochemical properties of the sunscreen formulations. Therefore, to choice a right composition is important for optimizing sunscreen formulations. Based on these findings, a desired sunscreen product was obtained. With high SPF of 68.21, good storage stability, and esthetic appearance, it is composed of CG 90 1.50%、Mineral oil 12.00%、Parsol MCX 10.00%、Parsol 1789 5.00%、Oxynex ST 0.50%、GermabenII 0.64%、TEA 0.10%、Carbopol 1342 0.104%、D.W 70.156%。 |
