目前各國對添加於化粧品中之色素添加劑的規範不一,所以在工廠生產製造時就必須注意產品銷售地區所允許使用的色素添加劑,也需避免在工廠生產製造時,所使用的色素添加劑因製程管理不當產生的交叉汙染;因此適當的分析方法對化粧品製程的品管即成為不可或缺的一大要素。
本研究以薄層層析法及離子對高效能液相層析法分析化粧品中常見的9種色素添加劑。實驗結果發現色素添加劑可能因其製程不同,在溶解度測試上有顯著的差異,因而增加了分析前處理的複雜性。而從薄層層析結果顯示,彩粧品中常見之色素添加劑多為極性較大的分子。在實驗中,以甲醇為較佳的溶解溶劑,而層析結果以甲醇為展開液的分離效果較佳。而有些色素添加劑,在實驗中前處理過程可能會使其形成相同之分子,而無法分辨其差異,因為若要分辨這些,就必須考慮改變樣品的前處理方法。
在液相層析實驗中結果顯示,分析物之滯留時間會隨著離子對試劑比例的增加而延後。而移動相中的離子對試劑濃度以2.2mM四甲基氫氧化銨的效果對分離各色素添加劑屬較佳。研究中尋得一適當之梯度沖提條件可得到最佳之分離效果,實驗中並將此條件應用於實際樣品上。此研究結果可做為分析色素添加劑時的參考依據。 The regulations of colorants in cosmetics are different from country to country. The manufacture have to aware the regulations in different countries and also avoid the cross contamination during manfacturing process. Therefore, a suitable analytical method will play an important role in the process quality control of cosmetics.
Thin-layer chromatography and ion-pair liquid chromatography are used in this study to analyze nine most common used color additives in cosmetics. The result show that the solubilities of some colorants from different resources exhibit.
Obvious differences and hence increase the complexity of pretreatment.
The results of thin-layer chromatography show better resolution when methanol is used as solvent and eluent. However, there are also some colorants could not be separated which probably due to the formation of some molecular during pretreatment process. The deserves further study. The results of ion-pair liquid chromatography show slower retention time of colorants as the ratio of ion-pair reagent in eluent increased. Better resolution is achieved when 2.2mM tetramethyl ammonium hydroxide was used as ion-pair reagent. The best resolution was achieved with gradient elution which was also applied to the analysis of commercial products. It could be an important reference for colorant analysis of cosmetics.