中草藥和溫泉菌之複合式化粧品原料製備及功效評估

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Title:	中草藥和溫泉菌之複合式化粧品原料製備及功效評估 Application and efficacy evaluation of Chinese herbal medicine and hot spring bacteria on cosmetic products
Authors:	黃心璉
Contributors:	化妝品科技研究所林清宮陳榮秀
Keywords:	溫泉中草藥 Chinese herbal medicine hot spring
Date:	2012
Issue Date:	2012-11-27 11:34:58 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	中草藥的使用歷史已數千年，除了在疾病的治療，近年來中草藥的應用亦越來越受到國人重視，如使用在化粧品保養功效上如美白、保濕、去角質。而溫泉除具有豐富礦物質外，也因含有溫泉菌對皮膚產生保養效果，可清潔皮膚、促進皮膚的新陳代謝。因此，若將中草藥與溫泉菌作結合應可生產出多功能肌膚保養產品。本研究從紫草根、仙鶴草C (來源為中國大陸)、仙鶴草T (來源為台東)、香椿、蒲公英、魚腥草等六種中草藥中挑選抗氧化效率最佳者，再使用知本菌與Anoxybacillus 菌進行醱酵，對醱酵後產物進行去角質功效評估，以應用在去角質產品之開發。取紫草根、仙鶴草C、仙鶴草T、香椿、蒲公英、魚腥草等六種中草藥經微波萃取後評估其清除DPPH‧自由基試驗、清除ABTS‧+ 陽離子自由基能力、pUC 119 DNA 電泳保護、評估抗菌能力、總酚類含量測定，並利用纖維母細胞以MTT實驗進行六種中草藥的細胞毒性測試。在產品評估中，將醱酵後產物加入溫泉包、沐浴乳及身體乳液產品中，進行一個月人體安全性及有效性試驗，將產品塗抹在手臂上用分光色差分儀、皮膚保濕測定儀、整合式皮膚諮詢系統檢測美白、彈力、保濕及角質貼片。實驗結果顯示仙鶴草C 抗氧化效率最好，在清除DPPH‧自由基結果為SC50 = 35.82 μg/mL；清除ABTS‧+自由基為 SC50 = 8.23 ± 3.67μg/mL；總酚為164.47 ± 5.03 mg GAE/g；以pUC 119 DNA 電泳評估保護為EC50=1.67 mg/mL；抑菌能力測試方面，對於痤瘡桿菌有抑菌作用 (其抑菌圈直徑為12mm )；仙鶴草C 萃取物細胞存活率試驗，在濃度0.5 mg/mL 達80 %以上細胞存活率，顯示在此濃度對細胞無明顯毒性。產品評估中，添加Anoxybacillus 菌醱酵產物的產品，對皮膚具有保濕、彈力，並在角質貼片中可以明顯的看出角質有明顯減少。本研究結果顯示仙鶴草C 萃取物經溫泉菌醱酵後之產物應用於肌膚保養產品能提升美白、保濕與去角質功效，故溫泉菌與中草藥的醱酵未來可開發在化粧品之應用之新原料。 Myriad of herbs have been used as traditional Chinese medicine for thousands of years. Those know ledges from Chinese ancestors have played an important role as traditional therapy in Asia. The application of herbal has been gradually emphasized in cosmetic science field, such as natural ingredients in skin care products that can be whitening, moisturizing or even exfoliate the skin. Previous research showed the bacteria in the hot springs could be used as exfoliation products and promote metabolism of skin by adding to the products. The present research will connect traditional herbs and hot spring bacteria to manufacture multi-functional skin care products. In this study，the composition of six Chinese herbal medicine in Lithosp ermumerythrorhizon, Rhinacanthus nasutus (L.) Kurz ( for Chinese ), Rhinacanthus nasutus (L.) Kurz ( for Taitung ),Toona sinensis, Taraxacum formosanum, Houttuynia cordata. selection of the best antioxidant . Re-use the Chihpen bacteria and Anoxybacillus bacteria fermentation, the products after fermentation researcher will take it to exfoliate efficacy assessment, applied in the development of exfoliating products. Take the Lithosp ermumerythrorhizon, Rhinacanthus nasutus (L.) Kurz C, Rhinacanthus nasutus (L.) Kurz T,Toona sinensis, Taraxacum formosanum Houttuynia such as six Chinese herbal medicine after extraction to assess Scavenging of Radical 1-Diphenyl-2-picrylhydrazyl assay , Scavenging of Radical Cation2，2’-azinobis-( 3-ethybenzothiazolin- 6-sulfonic acid) assay , pUC 119 DNA protection, antimicrobial capacity, total phenolic content determination and Fibroblast 3-(4,5-dimethylthiazole-2-yl) -2,5- diphenyltetrazo-liumbromide ) Experiments the cytotoxicity of the six kinds of Chinese herbs. In the product evaluation, the fermentation product by adding to spa package, shower gel and body lotion products a month human safety and efficacy of the test, and apply the products in the arm Apparatus spectrophotometric color, skin moisture analyzerdetection of the integrated skin Advisory system whitening, stretch, moisturizing and exfoliating patch. It can be seen from the experiment results similarly at antioxidant the DPPH free radicals scavenging SC50 = 335.82 μg/mL; scavenging of ABTS‧+ free radicals (SC50 = 8.23 ± 3.67 μg/mL); pUC 119 DNA protection (EC50 =1.67 mg/mL); Antimicrobial activity, the P. acnes inhibitory (inhibition zone diameter of 12 mm); MTT assay of the Rhinacanthus nasutus (L.) Kurz C extract, more than 80% cell survival in the concentration of 0.5 mg/mL, showing that cells without apparent toxicity at this concentration. On the product evaluation, the products adding Anoxybacillus bacteria fermentation can clearly see that horny horny patch has significantly reduced. The results of this study showed that the Rhinacanthus nasutus (L.) Kurz C extract Spa fermentation products can enhance the whitening, moisturizing and exfoliating effect, so the hot springs bacteria and fermentation of Chinese herbal medicine can be developed in the application of cosmetics raw materials.
Relation:	校內校外均不公開，學年度：100，126頁
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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