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    標題: 中草藥藥材及其醱酵液在化粧品上之應用
    The Application of Chinese Medicines Fermentations on Cosmetic Products
    作者: 呂昇揚
    貢獻者: 化妝品科技研究所
    林清宮
    陳榮秀
    關鍵字: 醱酵
    美白
    化粧品
    牛樟芝
    中草藥
    Chinese medicine plant
    fe
    Antrodia cinnamomea
    日期: 2012
    上傳時間: 2012-11-27 11:34:57 (UTC+8)
    摘要: 天然物質取代化學成份為一潮流,中草藥藥材、藥渣、植物萃取成分應用在化粧品為一發展趨勢,在「本草綱目」中記載有數百種之美容保健之中草藥,過去文獻也已有許多中草藥應用在化粧品之研究,這些中草藥有預防紫外線傷害、色素沉澱及皺紋產生,使皮膚美白、滋潤更健康,且歷代醫書中記載很多中草藥內服、外用具有美容保健功能。
    本研究以12種中草藥植物:牡丹皮(Paeonia suffruticosa PS)、黃耆(Astragalus membranaceus AM)、女貞子(Ligustrum lucidum LL)、丹參(Saliva miltiorrhiza SM)、桑白皮(Morus alba MA)、三七(Panax notoginseng PN)、白芍(Paeoniae Lactiflorae Pall PLP)、柴胡(Bupleurum falcatum BF)、地骨皮(Lycii Radicis Cortex LRC)、廣藿香(Pogostemon cablin PC)、人參鬚(Ginseng Tails GT)、石蓮花(Graptopetalum paraguayense GC)材料。使用50%酒精、水為溶劑,進行加熱迴流萃取、減壓濃縮、冷凍乾燥;將牡丹皮、黃耆、女貞子、丹參、桑白皮五種中草藥以牛樟芝菌進行醱酵,評估醱酵前後之抗氧化力、DNA保護率、總酚含量、抑菌、美白、細胞毒性、UV吸收等活性。
    結果顯示以50%酒精萃取牡丹皮抗氧化活性較佳其清除DPPH自由基之SC50為0.015±0.003 mg/mL,清除ABTS自由基之SC50為0.009 mg/mL 較佳;在pUC plasmid DNA保護方面以50%酒精萃取白芍較佳,在0.5mg/mL其保護率達77.63%;總酚含量則以50%酒精萃取女貞子 64.83μg GAE/mg較高;另外桑白皮萃取物對痤瘡桿菌有良好的抑制效果,在1 mg/disc抑菌圈為21.3±0.6mm;在蘑菇酪胺酸酶抑制試驗,則以桑白皮萃取物IC50為0.006 mg/mL,有比L-ascorbic acid IC50 0.14mg/mL更優異的美白能力;細胞毒性試驗中,12種中草藥藥材在濃度0.1mg/mL時對於細胞存活率皆有70%以上。
    天然保養品配方設計方面,將具有抗氧化、美白、抑制痤瘡桿菌等活性的桑白皮與其醱酵液調配成乳霜及精華液劑型配方。並評估此兩種保養品之黏度、粒徑、Lab值配方穩定性評估以及為期三週的人體功效性評估。結果顯示原配方置於不同溫度之外觀顏色及粒徑大小皆呈現穩定狀態,添加桑白皮萃取後對於配方穩定度並無明顯影響;使用桑白皮牛樟芝醱酵液之保養品,皮膚保水力有明顯提升,使用三週後達62.33較Placebo(基劑對照組) 60.20有較佳之保濕力;全臉膚質檢測項目皆有明顯改善,與痤瘡桿菌有關之原生紫質改善程度最為明顯,使用含桑白皮醱酵液產品從使用前403三週後降為173.2,使用含桑白皮萃取液產品從使用前315.6三週後降至148.4;皮膚亮度( L )值,三週後與Placebo(基劑對照組)差異值達1.88,顯示具有美白效果。故此桑白皮應用在未來美白及多功效性化粧品之中草藥極具開發性。
    The natural element substitute chemistry is trend, Chinese medicine and residues application is tendency on cosmetic products, The Compendium of Materia Medica record many Chinese medicine of beauty and Health Care, before study the Chinese medicine application on cosmetic product, for example prevention ultraviolet ray harm, pigmentation, wrinkles generation, and whitening.
    In this study, twelve kinds Chumese medicine plant (Paeonia suffruticosa, PS, Astragalus membranaceus, AM, Ligustrum lucidum, LL, Saliva miltiorrhiza, SM, Morus alba, MA, Panax notoginseng, PN, Paeoniae Lactiflorae Pall, PLP, Bupleurum falcatum, BF, Lycii Radicis Cortex, LRC, Pogostemon cablin, PC, Ginseng Tails ,GT, Graptopetalum paraguayense, GC), were extracted with two solvents (water and 50 % ethanol) furthermore PS, AM, LL, SM, MA with Antrodia cinnamomea bacteria fermentation, assess compared the antioxidant activity, pUC DNA protection, total phenol content, antibacterial activity, tyrosinase inhibition activity, cell toxicity and UV absortion.
    The results express, 50% ethanol extracted PS, the DPPH radical scavenging capacity ability showed the SC50 0.015±0.003 mg/mL and ABTS radical scavenging ability showed the SC50 0.009±0.001 mg/mL, 50% ethanol extracted PLP, DNA protection effect showed the 0.5mg/mL proeection rate 77.63%. The tatol phenol content of LL extract were 64.83±4.58 μg GAE/mg. The antibacterial activity, MA extract for P. acnes have good antibacterial effect, 1 mg/disc antibacterial circle 21.3±0.6mm. MA extract have tyrosinase inhibition activity the IC50 0.006±0.001 mg/mL, contrast L-ascorbic acid IC50 0.14mg/mL superior effect. The twelve kinds Chumese medicine plant Concentration of 0.1mg/mL for cell viability both more than 70%.
    Formulation design of natural skin care products with antioxidant, whitening, and inhibit the activity of P. acnes other MA and its fermentation solution deployment into the dosage form formulation of the cream and essence fluid. And evaluate the two kinds skin care products, viscosity, particle size, the Lab values formulation stability assessment, as well as a three-week assessment. The results showed that the original formula are placed in different temperatures of the appearance of color and particle size of steady state, add MA extract had no significant effect for formula stability; MA Antrodia cinnamomea fermentation broth of skin care products, skin warranty hydraulic improved significantly, up to 62.33 higher than of Placebo (agent-based control group) had a better moisturizing 60.20; All-face skin test items obvious improvement after the use of three weeks, the acnes native rhodopsin the most obvious improvement; skin brightness (L) value, after three weeks of Placebo (base agent in the control group) difference value of 1.88, with whitening effect. Therefore, MA used in whitening and multi-function cosmetic herbs highly developed.
    關聯: 校內校外均不公開,學年度:100,160頁
    Appears in Collections:[化妝品應用與管理系(所)] 博碩士論文

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