| 摘要: | 本研究中以三種不同乳化系統的穩定配方為基礎，添加不同濃度的佛手柑萃取液與三種市面上常用矽油，經過溫度老化、離心等加速試驗，探討乳化配方老化前後黏度與粒徑分佈大小的變化。藉此了解矽油與佛手柑萃取液對於乳化系統穩定性之影響。
研究結果顯示：（1）有效濃度0.20％與0.02％的佛手柑萃取液於Ceteary glucoside乳化系統中，經過溫度老化與離心試驗，在低切剪速率（0.75 sec-1）時溫度老化前後黏度差異皆在10％以內。在Sucrose stearate乳化系統中，有效濃度0.02％的佛手柑萃取液於低切剪速率下，其老化前後黏度差異50％。添加佛手柑萃取液有效濃度0.20％之乳液經過溫度老化與離心試驗後呈現不穩定現象。Polysorbate 60乳化系統則對於佛手柑萃取液不相容。（2）Sucrose stearate乳化系統中，添加Dimethicone的乳液配方在添加量5％之前是易分離狀態。添加量於5〜20％間，藉由粒徑分析發現乳液粒徑隨著添加量增加而變大，此為乳液安定性降低的現象，故添加5％時可以達到粒徑與黏度差異最小是最穩定的結果。添加Cyclomethicone的乳液配方則是添加量1％時，乳液粒徑與黏度差異最小、最穩定的結果。（3）在Ceteary glucoside乳化系統中乳液黏度會隨著矽油添加量增加而上升，添加含Dimethicone之配方乳液其增稠效果是最佳，添加含量以到5％為上限。此時可以達到黏度最高、粒徑差異度最小之安定乳液。添加含Cyclomethicone之配方乳液則是添加含量以1％為上限。含Phenyltrimethicone之配方乳液，藉由測試發現其乳液粒徑有變大之趨勢，故建議添加含量以不超過5％為佳。（4）Polysorbate 60乳化系統則對於矽油不相容。
本研究結果可以提供（1）中草藥萃取液對於乳化化粧品之穩定性。（2）不同結構矽油添加於乳化化粧品中，比例運用之相關性。（3）穩定乳化化粧品的配方開發之參考依據。
In this study, three different emulsion stability of the system formula based,adding different concentrations of bergamot extract and three commonly used silicone oil. After temperature aging, centrifugal acceleration test. Explore changes in the size of the viscosity and particle size distribution before and after the aging of the emulsion formulation.To understand how the silicone oil and bergamot extract affect the stability of emulsion systems.
The results show：（1）the effective concentration of 0.20% and 0.02% of the bergamot extract at the Cetearyl glucoside emulsion system. After temperature aging and centrifuge test, low shear rate (0.75 sec-1) viscosity before and after aging of the temperature differences are less than 10%. At the Sucrose stearate emulsion system,effective concentration of 0.02% of the bergamot extract have viscosity difference before and after aging for 50%. After temperature aging and the centrifuge test, including the effective concentration of 0.20% emulsion showing instability. Polysorbate 60 emulsion system is unstable.（2）At the Sucrose stearate emulsion system, add dimethicone emulsion formulations is easy to instability in the one to five percent. Add the amount in 5 ~ 20%, found that the particle size becomes large, this reduced emulsion stability phenomenon, at the concentration of 5% can be achieved when the minimum particle size and viscosity differences is the most stable. Add Cyclomethicone the emulsion formula, at the concentration of 1% can be achieved when the minimum particle size and viscosity differences is the most stable.（3）At the Cetearyl glucoside in emulsion systems,emulsion viscosity increased with increasing amount of silicone oil to add, add the formula with dimethicone emulsion thickening effect best, at the concentration of 5% can be achieved when the minimum particle size and viscosity differences is the most stable. Add Cyclomethicone of the emulsions, at the concentration of 1% can be achieved when the minimum particle size and viscosity differences is the most stable. Add Phenyltrimethicone of the emulsions, add content to not more than 5%.（4）At the Polysorbate 60 emulsion system,silicone oil will be to produce instability.
The results of this study can provide（1）The stability of the emulsion cosmetics with in the herbal medicine.（2）Contains the different structures of the silicone oil in the emulsified cosmetics, the material use amount of correlation.（3）The Reference that to do formulation development with stable emulsion cosmetic. |
