| 摘要: | 中草藥萃取物為目前化粧品原料開發的主流方向，因此本研究主要以紅薏仁、訶子、洛神花、桃仁、龍膽草、蒲公英、魚腥草及山槴子等八種中草藥，分為五個部分做探討：第一部分為評估抗菌能力，包含紙錠抑菌試驗及最低抑菌濃度試驗；第二部分以體外模式系統評估其對磨菇酪胺酸酶活性之抑制能力；第三部分探討其保水能力；第四部分為評估抗氧化能力，包含清除 DPPH 自由基 及 ABTS 陽離子自由基之能力；第五部分為將中草藥應用於化粧品配方中，評估其安定性及人體之安全性及有效性。得到的結果如下：
抑菌能力測試方面，紙錠抑菌試驗之結果顯示訶子與洛神花對於Candida guilliermondii具有高度活性之抑菌作用 (抑菌圈直徑分別為16.00±1.73 mm, 24.00±3.46 mm)。另外在最低抑菌濃度試驗結果顯示，洛神花萃取物在濃度為0.625 mg/mL 時對Candida guilliermondii具最低抑菌能力。而在酪胺酸酶活性評估上顯示訶子與洛神花，其抑制率最佳 (IC50 分別為3.052, 1.822 mg/mL)。保水能力測試結果顯示，訶子、蒲公英及桃仁等具有應用價值。另外經由不同抗氧化試驗之評估，在 DPPH 自由基試驗方面，訶子具有最佳之清除率 (SC50 為4.373 µg/mL)；而在 ABTS陽離子自由基試驗中以訶子、蒲公英及魚腥草具有較高的清除能力 (SC50 分別為1.922、28.012、21.585 µg/mL)。
將分別添加有紅薏仁、訶子、洛神花、桃仁、龍膽草、蒲公英、魚腥草及山槴子萃取物之潔面慕斯、化粧水、精華液及乳液，進行三個月之安定性試驗，評估其於28℃及50℃下外觀、色差及 pH 值之變化，結果顯示添加訶子及山槴子萃取物於配方中會產生較嚴重之色差情形，而添加有紅薏仁及訶子萃取物之潔面慕斯及化粧水配方則產生沉澱物。針對訶子萃取物所產生之色差情形，以降低添加濃度及添加龍膽草萃取物，可有效改善之，另外紅薏仁及訶子萃取物所產生的沉澱問題，可利用過濾及添加乳化劑，如 Solubilisant LRI 或 Polysorbate 20改善。
經由活性及安定性測試結果，於配方中分別添加不同之中草藥，例如：潔面慕斯配方中添加洛神花萃取物 (0.07%) 及紅薏仁萃取物 (0.03%)；化粧水配方中則添加洛神花萃取物 (0.08%)、紅薏仁萃取物 (0.01%) 及訶子萃取物 (0.01%)；精華液配方中則添加洛神花萃取物 (0.06%)、紅薏仁萃取物 (0.03%) 及訶子萃取物 (0.01%)；乳液配方中則添加龍膽草萃取物 (0.1%) 及訶子萃取物 (0.01%)，此四種劑型之配方經人體試驗後無過敏及刺激性問題，並能有效減少皮膚中的原生紫質、斑點及毛孔，還能提高皮膚中的保濕能力，故未來可將此四種配方與中草藥運用於抗痘、縮毛孔、淡斑及保濕等產品之開發。
Traditional Chinese medicine has become a mainstream in the development of active ingredients for the cosmetic industry. In this study, eight kinds of Chinese herbal were employed, such as Coix lacryma, Terminalia chebula, Hibiscus sabdariffa, Prunus Persica, Gentiana regescens, Taraxacum mongolicum, Houttuynia cordata and Gardeniae jasminoidis. This study was divided into five parts. The first part is to evaluate the anti-bacterial effect by the disk-diffusion and minimum inhibitory concentration methods. Secondly, we evaluated the mushroom tyrosinase inhibition activities, in vitro. Thirdly, we also evaluated the water-maintence capacity. To continued, the antioxidant activity of scavenging capacities of DPPH radical and ABTS radical were measured. Finally, the additions of the Chinese herbal extracts in cosmetic formula were examined on the storage stability, safety and efficacy, in vivo. The results obtained as followings:
Anti-bacterial effect of disk-diffusion test of Terminalia chebula and Hibiscus sabdariffa against to Candida guilliermondii with highest activity (inhibition zone：16.00±1.73 mm, 24.00±3.46 mm, respectively). On the other hand, it shows that the minimum inhibitory concentration by Hibiscus sabdariffa are 0.625 mg/mL respectively for Candida guilliermondii. Terminalia chebula and Hibiscus sabdariffa exhibited potent inhibitory effects on tyrosinase inhibition activities (IC50=3.052, 1.822 mg/mL, respectively). In the water-maintenance experiment, data showed that extracts of Terminalia chebula, Taraxacum mongolicum and Prunus Persica may become potential moisturizers. With the different anti-oxidant activities assay, Terminalia chebula had the greatest DPPH radical scavenging effect (SC50=4.373 µg/mL). Terminalia chebula., Taraxacum mongolicum and Houttuynia cordata scavenged ABTS＋• free radical (SC50=1.922, 28.012, 21.585 µg/mL, respectively) have highest activity.
Be ready respective to add Coix lacryma, Terminalia chebula, Hibiscus sabdariffa, Prunus Persica, Gentiana regescens, Taraxacum mongolicum, Houttuynia cordata and Gardeniae jasminoidis extracts of mousse cleanser, toner, essence and lotion, to test the stability for three months, evaluate the changes of gross, color and pH at 28℃ and 50℃, an outcome to show, the formula to add Terminalia chebula and Gardeniae jasminoidis extracts showed remarked color change. The following to add Coix lacryma, Terminalia chebula extracts formula in mousse cleanser and toner with precipitation. Aimed to reduce Terminalia chebula extract brownish, we reduced the concentration of Taraxacum mongolicum extract and added the Gentiana regescens, result showed that this treatment can improve effectively, and then Coix lacryma and Terminalia chebula extracts, we used filtration and addition of the emulsifier, such as Solubilisant LRI or Polysorbate 20 to improve.
All the formula proposed in this study will not induce allergy and irritation in vivo, and can reduce the amount of spots, pores and prophyrines, and also increase the moisture at skin, therefore, in the future we can use the four types of formula and Chinese herbs development and application on anti-acne, reduce the pores, spots and increase the skin moisture. |
