| 摘要: | 本研究探討天然物可做為化粧品添加之原料，以應用在化粧保養品開發的契機。從數十種天然物中，經過美白及抗氧化測試的篩選，選出五種可食用之天然物做為化粧品原料添加劑，分別為益母草 (Leonurus heterophyllus)、蓮子 (seed of Nelumbo nucifera)、花生 (Arachis hypogaea)、膠原蛋白 (collagen)、溫泉水 (hot spring water)，並深入評估。
在In vitro 蘑菇酪胺酸酶活性試驗中，得知花生有最高的抑制蘑菇酪胺酸酶活性，以及溫泉水與蓮子皆具有很好的抑制活性，它們的美白能力均優於熊果素 (Arbutin)；在抗氧化研究中關於清除DPPH自由基能力，得知花生及益母草具有卓越的清除能力；在pUC119 DNA損傷之保護試驗中，花生及益母草同樣具有很好的保護效果，顯示花生及益母草皆有明顯的抗氧化作用。
本研究另測試五種天然物在保濕、細胞存活率以及抑菌方面的作用，在保濕測試中，蓮子及膠原蛋白的保濕能力優於1%的甘油 (Glycerin) ；在細胞存活率試驗 (MTT assay)中，五種天然物在0.1 mg/mL濃度皆未造成細胞死亡，顯示在此濃度對細胞是安全的；在抑菌試驗中，溫泉水於2 mg/disc濃度對大腸桿菌 (E.coli)具有中度的抑菌活性。
天然保養品配方設計方面，將具有不同活性的五種天然物調配成複方萃取液 (Complex extracts)，添加至三種不同劑型配方中，分別為凝膠 (Gel base)、面膜 (Mask base)及身體乳液 (Milk lotion base)。並依據原料特性之不同，選擇出最合適的配方以製造成天然保養品；由於皮膚狀況與人體精神受到壓力下的生理反應有關聯，因此在配方中添加天然精油，調製出能降低壓力的溫泉噴霧 (Spray base)，再使用HRV壓力指數分析儀，測試受測者使用前後之壓力指數，結果得到良好降低壓力與精神提升效果。
為了評估保養品的功效性及穩定性，進行為期四週的人體功效性評估、化粧品溫度安定性測試及微生物挑戰試驗。結果顯示添加Complex extracts產品對皮膚是具有保濕、美白及改善皮膚各項狀況等益處，同時也通過化粧品微生物挑戰試驗與溫度安定性測試。所有結果指出，將本實驗研究之天然物應用於配方原料，對於天然保養品的製造是可運用並可積極開發的。
This study is aimed to evaluate the feasibility of the application of natural materials as the active ingredients for the cosmetic products. We extensively investigated the properties of more than twenty natural materials by whitening and antioxidant assays, and five edible natural materials including Leonurus heterophyllus, seed of Nelumbo nucifera, Arachis hypogaea, collagen and hot spring water, were selectively utilized for the further investigation.
By using in vitro mushroom tyrosinase assay, Arachis hypogaea exhibited the strongest inhibitory effect on mushroom tyrosinase, as well as hot spring water and seed of Nelumbo nucifer had good effects, their whitening capacity all were better than arbutin. Additionally, Arachis hypogaea and Leonurus heterophyllus were demonstrated the superior efficacy of DPPH radical scavenging capacity and DNA protection ability, suggested the capacity of these two materials in antioxidation.
The effects of these five natural materials on water retention and cell survival and antibacterial were also investigated. On water retention, seed of Nelumbo nucifera and collagen were better than 1% glycerin; In MTT assay for cell survival, these five natural materials did not cause cellular dieth when dose at the 0.1 mg/mL, showed they are safety for cell; On antibacterial effect that hot spring water for E.coli had moderate antibacterial activity at 2 mg/disc concentration.
On formulation designed of natural cosmetics, modulated complex extracts using these five kinds of natural materials, and were added into three different formulation forms, respectively for the gel base, mask base and milk lotion base. According the material different properties, selected the most appropriate formulation to manufacture the natural cosmetics. As the skin condition is associated with the physiological responses of human when under mental stress, we used natural complex essential oils that we had tested to reduce mental stress, with hot spring water to modulate spray base formulation. Using HRV stress index detector to detect the stress index of subjects respectively for applying spray product before and after, and we got good effectiveness to reduce mental stress.
For the evaluation of the efficiency and stability of these natural cosmetics, they were assessed by human efficiency evaluation, stability examination and microbial challenge test for lasting four weeks. The results demonstrated that these products are capable for whitening, moisture and improved skin conditions, and moreover, their stability and preservation passed the tests. All the results suggested these five natural materials as cosmetic additives apply into formulations that is application for the manufacturing of natural cosmetic and can be developed. |
