卸粧油配方之研究與探討

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Title:	卸粧油配方之研究與探討 Study and Formulation Development of the Cleansing Oil
Authors:	呂政庭
Contributors:	林清宮嘉南藥理科技大學：化妝品科技研究所
Keywords:	配方安全性測試清潔卸妝油 formulation safety studies cleansing oil clean
Date:	2009
Issue Date:	2010-03-30 14:21:22 (UTC+8)
Abstract:	隨著化粧品市場開發的日新月異，彩粧（Foundation）及防曬隔離霜（Sunscreen）的成份，亦朝更持久性及防水性的方向，因此，清潔卸粧產品的也必須有相對的能力，但是在清潔能力的條件下，如何兼顧皮膚的相容溫和性及舒適性，也是卸粧產品的一大課題。傳統的卸粧產品大致可分為卸粧液、卸粧乳及卸粧油；卸粧液（Cleansing solution）原理為利用清潔劑與鹼劑為基底，對皮膚做強力的去脂方式來清潔，卸粧乳（Cleansing lotion or cream）雖溫和，卻有無法有效清潔的疑慮，卸粧油（Cleansing oil）則有完整的清潔及對皮膚溫和的優點。新一代的卸粧油是利用不同的油基（Base oil）、酯類（Ether）及乳化劑（Surfactant）所組成的產品，比起傳統的卸粧模式，要用面紙擦拭後，再用洗臉產品將殘留的油脂洗淨，要方便許多；以油溶油的機制，將皮膚的彩粧油污融合，再透過乳化劑的成份與水乳化的模式，加以沖洗而將臉上的污垢清除。但在卸粧的同時，相對的產生了許多皮膚刺激性，及成份殘留所造成皮膚角化（Hyperkeratosis）等異常，因此，在這篇研究裡，我們將就卸粧油中的主要成份，包括了油脂及乳化劑，與皮膚所衍生的問題加以探討。因此，選擇不同的油基、合成酯及乳化劑，分別做不同比例的調配，做卸粧效果及過敏與殘留實驗安全性測試，除了可以選擇優良的清潔效果，也可以將有致敏的成份降最低，期待未來能有更溫和的原料，能兼顧清潔與保養的卸粧產品。 With the change of market development of the cosmetics, color make-up and preventing suntan to isolate the compositions of the frost, also towards permanence and getting waterproof direction, so clean, unload, make up to must have relative ability too products, but under the terms of cleaning ability, how to give consideration to the inclusive and gentle and comfortableness of the skin, unload a great subject of making up products too. The traditional one unloads and makes up the products and can roughly be divided into and unloaded and made up the liquid, unloaded and made up the milk and unloaded and made up the oil; Unload and make up the liquid (Cleansing solution) Principle and soda pharmaceutical basis for utilize cleanser, make going lipoprotein way come on to skin clean strong, unload and make up the milk (Cleansing lotion or cream) Although gentle, but have unable effective clean doubt, unload, make up oil (Cleansing oil) There are intact cleanness and gentle advantage to skin. It utilizes different oil bases (oil) to unload and make up the oil newly and monobasic , the esters (ether) And the emulsifier (surfactant) Products made up, compared with unloading waying of making up traditional, want spend of paper polish, and then by having the face products and cleaning the residual oil, should facilitate much more; Dissolve the mechanism of the oil with the oil, merge the color make-up greasy dirt of the skin, and then pass the compositions of the emulsifier and water emulsification way, wash but remove the dirt on the face. But while unloading and making up, relative production a lot of skin irritation, and composition remain, cause skin corner take unusual, so, in this research, we put up with and unload the main component made up in the oil, including the oil and emulsifier, probe into the question that the skin derives. choose different oil base, synthetic ester and emulsifier and do the mix of different proportions respectively, unload the result of making up and be allergic and remain the way of the experiment, except can choose the fine clean result, can cause quick composition lower most low having too, expect, can have gentle raw materials future, the ones that can hold concurrently and clean and maintain firmly are unloaded and making up the products.
Relation:	校內校外均不公開，學年度：97，83頁
Appears in Collections:	[Dept. of Cosmetic Science and institute of cosmetic science] Dissertations and Theses

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