| 摘要: | 隨著化粧品的多元化，消費者希望買到具有功效性的產品，因人體長期使用接觸，更必須確保不會產生刺激性及毒性，故檢測化粧品的有效性及安全性十分重要。
在本研究中針對63種常見植物精油在抗菌、抗氧化方面研究探討，相關科學性研究佐證，綜合性探討，確立精油產品的有效性。過往分析中，並未針對使用時可能產生的負效應多加考量，已知某些特定精油成份具有光毒性。光毒性反應機轉繁雜，應以多種檢測方式來評估，以一連串的篩檢，逐步移除非光毒性物質，有效減少實驗成本，快速並取代動物試驗使用量。本研究進行植物精油光毒性探討，以期搭配不同方法，建立一套開發活性成分時，簡單且快速的化粧品光毒性初篩模式。
精油對於Candida guilliermondii抑制效果普遍較Escherichia coli佳，香茅油在兩種菌中皆有最大抑菌圈。抗氧化分析中，DPPH‧及ABTs+.兩種自由基清除能力前三名排名皆為：百里香、依蘭、香茅油；精油大多含有酚類物質，總酚含量相對較高者前三名為：丁香油、百里香、安息香。光毒評估方面，以已知具光毒之Norfloxacin及Chlorpromazine為正對照品，利用菌片分析正對照品，發現濃度越高、光照能量越強，光毒反應愈強，對細菌傷害越大，菌落生成數減少。首先觀察精油的UVA(320-400nm)吸收度，取前九名有較大吸收之精油及九種過往記載或存疑之精油進一步分析，UVA較大吸收度之前九名精油分別為：肉桂、山雞椒、甜橙、檸檬、羅勒、葡萄柚、岩蘭草、玫瑰、蒔蘿，九種可能光毒精油為：橙花、佛手柑、茴香、檸檬草、紅柑、香茅油、薑油、澳洲檀香油、萊姆；大腸桿菌抑菌圈變化中，檸檬、紅柑及葡萄柚精油有明顯的擴大現象；pUC119 DNA電泳結果，不同精油於電泳模式中，隨UVA照光能量增加產生不等斷裂情形，除玫瑰精油無影響，其餘精油在UVA照光能量增加下皆有不等的DNA斷裂情形發生，須再進一步試驗。
以科學方法論證精油功能於化粧品活性成分開發中，可使有效應用、提升使用價值，同時發揮使用目標之功效；對於光敏性物質，應詳細標明注意事項，以確保產品使用的安全性。
With the diversification of cosmetic products, consumers want to buy products with efficacy, long-term use due to human contact, but also the need to ensure that does not produce irritating and toxic, they detect the effectiveness of cosmetics and safety is very important.
In this study, 63 kinds of common plants for essential oil in the anti-bacterial, anti-oxidation study area, the relevant scientific research support, comprehensive studies to examine and establish the effectiveness of essential oil products. Previous analysis, not for the use of the negative effects that may arise more Consideriation known specific toxicity of essential oil components have a light. Phototoxicity complicated reaction mechanism should be based on a variety of detection methods to assess, to a series of screening, and gradually remove non-phototoxic substances, effective in reducing the experimental cost, fast and replace the use of animal testing. The present study explored phototoxic essential oils, with different methods with a view to establish a set of active ingredient in the product development, the simple and rapid screening of cosmetics model phototoxicity.
Candida guilliermondii essential oils for a more general inhibitory effect of Escherichia coli-kai, citronella oil in the two strains in both the largest inhibition zone. Analysis of anti-oxidation, DPPH ‧ and ABTs +. Two free radical scavenging capacity of the top three ranks are: thyme, ylang ylang, citronella oil; oil mostly contains polyphenols, a relatively high content of total phenols were the top three as follows: clove oil, thyme, benzoin. The assessment of phototoxic to the known toxicity of Norfloxacin with light and a positive reference substance Chlorpromazine, analysis of the use of bacteria-chip reference substance is found that the higher the concentration, the stronger the light energy, the stronger phototoxic reaction, the greater the harm to the bacteria, reduce the number of colonies generated. First observation of the essential oil of UVA (320-400nm) absorption, taking nine more before the absorption of essential oils and nine of the past record or doubt further analysis of essential oils, UVA nine large oil absorption of the former are: cinnamon, pheasant pepper, sweet orange, lemon, basil, grapefruit, bluegrass rock, roses, dill, 9 kinds of essential oils may be phototoxic as follows: orange blossom, bergamot, fennel, lemon grass, red mandarin, citronella oil, ginger oil, Australia sandalwood oil, lime; E. coli inhibition zone changes, lemon, red mandarin and grapefruit essential oils have a marked expansion of the phenomenon; pUC119 DNA electrophoresis results of different essential oils in the electrophoretic pattern, with the increase of UVA light have a range of energy fracture cases, with the exception of Rose essential oil had no effect, and the remaining oil in the UVA light ranging from energy to increase the DNA of both cases fracture occurred, then further tests to explore the possibility of phototoxic. ㄧ can step into the establishment of the distinction between strong and weak light of the baseline drug, but the mechanism of phototoxic reaction complex, the assessment should be based on a variety of ways, one by one to exclude the possibility of toxic substances light.
Demonstration of scientific methods to oil functional cosmetic active ingredient in development, will enable the effective application to enhance the value, at the same time to play the effect of the use of objectives; for photosensitive material, should be marked with attention to detail to ensure the safety of products. |
