化妝品配方的成份性質，在實質上是很重要的。本篇利用ATR (attenated total reflection) 傅立葉轉換紅外線光譜儀 (FTIR) 研究防曬劑成份對氨基苯甲酸，加入促進劑 (植物油如玉米胚芽油、橄欖油、芥花油、蔬菜油、葵花油、大豆油、葡萄仔油和植物精油如迷迭香、依蘭、紫丁香、柑橘類精油) 對人類皮膚吸收之效應。FT-IR結果顯示用促進劑處理過的角質層，並不改變一級胺不對稱和對稱N-H伸縮 (3455 cm-1 和3360 cm-1) 和苯環 C=C伸縮 (1605 cm-1和1525 cm-1) 吸收波峰位置。但波峰高度較角質層未處理促進劑者低。 Substantivity is an important property of ingredients in cosmetic formulations. This paper utilized attenated total reflection (ATR) - Fourier transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy to investigate sunscreening agent p – aminobenzoic acid percutaneous absorption containing equimolar amounts of skin penetration enhancers (corn germ oil, olive oil, canola oil, vegetable oil, sunflower seed oil, soybean oil, grape seed oil and essential oil such as rosemary oil, ylang oil, lilacin oil and citrus esstential oil).
The FT-IR results showed that treatment of the stratum corneum with enhancers did not shift the asymmetric and symmetric N–H stretching (3455 and 3360 cm-1) and the benzene ring C=C stretching (1605 and 1525 cm-1 ) absorbances peak positions but resulted in a decrease in the peak heights in comparison with the untreated stratum corneum. Treatment with corn germ oil and rosemary essential oil in combination with sunscreen cream significantly increased the percutaneous absorption of p – aminobenzoic acid in comparison with treatment with sunscreen cream alone.
